In a style that pays homage to the chef’s Sushisho roots, the cuisine at Sushisho Masa consists of beautifully intertwined appetizer plates and nigiri sushi pieces. After about five plates of appetizers, Chef Oka may tease with just one sublime nigiri piece, return to a series of exquisite appetizer dishes and then wow again with nigiri. It’s an unconventional style in modern sushi in which the arrival of nigiri pieces typically signals the end of appetizer courses, made even more unique by the chef’s desire to really please his guests with totally new creations and flavor combinations.

The perfect example of Oka’s flair for the atypical is a trio of katsuo bonito pieces: a marinated piece of red flesh with a secret dab of Japanese mustard, the melting texture of bonito belly that looks just like otoro, and charred sashimi pieces sandwiching delectable mild garlic that has been marinating in soy sauce for more than a month. Presented as a selection of different proteins and tasting so drastically different in terms of appearance, texture and flavor, guests are always shocked to learn this dish is all bonito. Oka felt limitations on the variations for maguro but found a world of delicious possibilities when it comes to bonito. The theme of three ways is often also followed for buri yellowtail and anago conger eel, the latter of which typically includes salt-grilled and simmered variations that surprise guests with the very different textures – plump with some bite versus soft, fluffy, and falling apart flesh.

The chef’s signature dish of “toro-feuille” is a decadent creation layering thinly sliced fatty tuna with generous helpings of wasabi. Made this day with the fatty part of tuna fished off Toi on Hokkaido’s southern tip, the sight of the mountains of wasabi may alarm some diners, but the chef is certain you will adore its flavors, perfectly balanced with the tuna’s delicious fat. The tuna revelations don’t stop there; while convention calls for akami to be followed by chutoro and otoro, heading to progressively fattier portions, Oka turns all that on its head choosing to go in the opposite direction, preferring to close with the umami-rich red flesh portions of akami. Overall, Sushisho Masa offers a wonderful course of delectable flavors that show the chef’s deep respect for sushi conventions of old, whilst exploring the possibilities this amazing world can offer.

INGREDIENTS
Most of the bountiful seafood comes to Sushisho Masa via Tsukiji Market but is also procured directly from Hokkaido’s Hakodate market and the marketplace in Hakata on the south island of Kyushu. In peak uni sea urchin season, a meal at Sushisho Masa includes both akauni and murasakiuni, allowing you to compare the umami, sweetness and depth of flavor of these two premium varieties.

Oka is not shy about using ingredients not typically seen at sushi restaurants. The only prerequisite is that it be delicious. With former master Chef Nakazawa now based in Hawaii, Oka is exposed to many new kinds of fish, and one particularly well-received one is opah (akamanbo), served as sashimi, blanched or marinated. Deep-water skilfish found in waters off Hokkaido and Chiba is another exquisite product: with rich fat, cooking softens the bones leaving tender juicy flesh that is almost unbearably delicious. Oka’s rice ovals are made from a blend of Akita Komachi and Hitomebore varietals that have been allowed to rest for a year after harvest. His original vinegar blend contains four different types, three of which are akazu red vinegars. And for that delicious kick, wasabi is sourced direct from Shizuoka Prefecture.