Masterful incorporation of local ingredients in a stroll through the present moment pique guests’ awareness of the blessings of each season, panning in from the landscape outside to the flower arrangements, tableware and local produce within. The menu is created based on the ingredients arriving in the kitchen each morning; you may only meet those dishes for one or a few days at the peak of the ingredient’s season. Add to that stunning presentation ranging from extreme minimalism to an elaborate display of pine needles or autumn leaves, the journey through Komatsu’s plates adopts varied levels of stimulation and tempo inviting excited anticipation for what may come next.

In simmered dishes, Chef Komatsu uses a combination of Rausu and Hidaka kombu. His dashi for soup, however, is made from Rishiri kombu and premium bonito flakes shaved from bonito blocks fermented with wild yeast and allowed to dry through an entirely natural process. He also edits the base stock enabling him to showcase key flavors, for example, infusing flavor from sea bream fish heads when sea bream is the main ingredient. The bowl arrives with its lid firmly in place; the excitement of discovering what is within is like opening a special gift. Wild-caught Funka Bay sea bream and glossy Daikoku shimeji mushrooms are topped with perfect rounds of brilliant green zest – the source of those incredible aromas the moment you opened the lid.

Charcoal-grilled sawara, Japanese Spanish mackerel, is generously topped with luscious homemade bottarga and served in a brilliant crimson dish certain to appeal with its warm tones and intricate hand-painted design. More magnificent presentation follows with a black cast iron pot the backdrop to pearly abalone resting in its iridescent shell with tones of emerald green, adorned simply with a trio of ginkgo nuts. The abalone liver has been pureed and combined with soy sauce, and the perfect bite-size pieces are a show of consideration for guests, making eating easier without interfering with the enjoyment of the deliciously meaty, chewy flesh.

A typical sashimi course includes a selection of raw fish. Komatsu, however, hopes guests will truly savor the unique flavors and textures of just one variety. Biting into the glistening silver skin of lightly pressed saba mackerel reveals luscious fatty flesh with a clean finish that you will never forget. For a warm appetizer, a meaty piece of hair crab rests on top of richly aromatic grilled miso inside a vessel made from carved-out yuzu fruit. On a bed of pine needles atop of an individual charcoal brazier, the use of presentation elements is as superb as the flavors of the edible ones, and the wafting aromas coax and tease, whetting the appetite for the next dish to come. A perfectly ripe persimmon cup contains a dish dressed in a tofu, white miso and persimmon vinegar sauce and the resulting flavors are reminiscent of cheese. Next to it, beneath a veil of autumn leaves is sumptuous Wakayama Prefecture ayu sweetfish that has been lovingly prepared in a three-day process involving simmering, drying, boiling and grilling. The closing dish of perfectly steamed white rice is topped with exquisite seasonal produce like a luscious piece of chargrilled eel. And following the traditions of kaiseki, which has its origins in tea ceremony, guests are treated to a sweet morsel, seasonal fruit and a delicious cup of matcha green tea.

INGREDIENTS
Ezo abalone, hair crab, wild sea bream from Funka Bay: Komatsu makes the most of an abundance of deliciously fresh ingredients sourced locally in Hokkaido. When it comes to kombu kelp – an essential in Japanese cuisine – Chef Komatsu has Rishiri, Rausu and Hidaka varieties, each dish determining which qualities of flavor he wishes to highlight. Many years of culinary endeavor in Hokkaido have afforded the chef deep insight into the origins of every item that comes into his kitchen. And while a Hokkaido-centric menu is always served to first-time guests and north island outsiders, the menu is adapted to delight locals alike with new experiences and flavors.

Chef Komatsu’s selection of sake includes around twelve bottles of the best items each season. The broad selection is a product of the fact that most customers express a preference for sake to enjoy with their meal. But wine lovers will also be delighted with Chef Komatsu’s choices for pairing beautifully with his delicious cuisine.