Hokkaido

Sushi Shin

鮨　心

In the heart of Asia’s most popular ski resort is a culinary gem that offers a truly authentic Edomae sushi experience. The first ever sister restaurant to three-starred Sushi Miyakawa in Sapporo, the quality at Sushi Shin is top-notch. With the luxury of being attended by two head chefs, treat yourself for the finest of local catches, refined using classic techniques.

The restaurant was founded in March 2017 on a vision to showcase the best of sushi to international gourmands traveling to Niseko. True to its name, which takes the character for heart, their philosophy is to connect people through food. Under the strict supervision of Chef Masaaki Miyakawa, every detail is made to perfection as the chefs, Hironori Satake and Kazuo Ogura, curate a delectable seasonal meal.

The restaurant is situated inside a stylish western cottage of Niseko Northern Resort. Once you step inside, the air is filled with traditional Japanese ambiance. The stone-paved walls add depth to the space while carefully curated Japanese flower arrangements remind guests of the four seasons. There are only eight seats set around the L-shaped counter, while there are also two small private rooms. Enjoy the peaceful setting as you wait to savor the selection of fresh local seafood.

The first ever sister restaurant to three-starred Sushi Miyakawa

Undoubtedly, the quality of Sushi Shin is equivalent to its three-star sister restaurant. This is only made possible by the mastery of two experienced chefs.

The omakase menu features the flavors of the season. In the summer, for example, the appetizer dishes may include a lovely light salad of grilled aubergine and salmon roe, steamed black abalone with liver sauce and grilled Pacific saury with Japanese ume plum sauce.

Following the small dishes begins a parade of nigiris, using the freshest catches of the day. The sushi courses crescendo from lighter-flavored fish to stronger and darker meats. The chefs pay careful attention to how to mature each fish and at what precise temperature to serve them. Not only limited to local catches from Hokkaido, they source the best fish from across the country.

The shiny piece of squid, fished in Kagoshima Prefecture, is delicately wrapped over the vinegared shari rice like strips of ribbon. The chef has made slits on the surface to give it that wonderful soft texture. The fatty tuna of the day was caught off the shores of Oma in Aomori Prefecture, weighing 160 kg. The tender meat has been resting for over a week. The beautiful marble almost looks like premium wagyu beef.

The chefs are picky about where their salmon roe comes from. They prefer softer and more delicate batches caught farther away from the shores. The fish eggs are topped with little sprinkles of yuzu citrus for a refreshing finish. The sea urchin risotto is one and only. Served in a beautiful black bowl, a little morsel of vinegared shari rice is mixed in a rich sea urchin sauce and topped with a plump piece of sea urchin and seaweed flakes. Every bite unleashes the deep aroma of the sea in your mouth. Flavor-packed horsehair crab meats are rolled into balls and draped with yuzu citrus jelly and scoops of crab eggs. The combination is surprisingly light, allowing the tongue to focus on the umami of the crab itself.

The last sushi dish is the egg, sweetened with a combination of grated shrimp, white fish and Japanese mountain yam. Slow cooked for more than an hour, the slices are so soft and fluffy. Cleanse your mouth with a bowl of warm miso, followed by an ice cream dessert.

INGREDIENTS
The chefs of Sushi Shin procure fish directly from trusted vendors across Japan. For example, they buy tuna from Ishiji Shoten in Toyosu. Anago salt water eels also come from a vendor in Tokyo. The abalone and crab are caught by a fisherman in Shimane Prefecture. The rice is a blend of koshihikari and yumepikari grains. The vinegar is a mix of several red vinegars. The premium Kontobi seaweed is particularly aromatic. Made of a mixture of different types of seaweeds, the green seaweed gives it a great scent.

As the leading sushi restaurant of Hokkaido that caters gourmands from all over the world, Shin remains committed to sourcing the best ingredients that Japan has to offer.

CHEF

Hironori Satake and Kazuo Ogura

Hironori Satake was born in Wakayama Prefecture in 1970. He was an active child, growing up playing wrestling. He used to think that the chef at the sushi restaurant his parents used to take him too was so cool. He also loved to cook, often helping his mother in the kitchen. After graduating high school, he didn’t hesitate to pursue a culinary career and began training at a sushi restaurant in Osaka.

He quickly began building up his resume by working at top-notch hotel restaurants including the Ritz Carlton in Osaka and later the Mandarin Oriental and the Ritz Carlton in Tokyo. Despite working for 20 years in Osaka, he was drawn to the art of Edomae sushi and learned more about the classic style during his years in Tokyo.

He relocated to Niseko for Sushi Shin’s opening, excited to be in a place that had such great access to Hokkaido produce. He also had the opportunity to train at Sushi Miyakawa, allowing him to learn from a world class Michelin chef. He is enjoying his new life in Hokkaido, traveling around and going to hot springs on days off.

Kazuo Ogura was born in Susuki, Hokkaido in 1967. His family ran a fishmonger and later a catering company so food was a part of his childhood growing up. He used to also love the TV show, Zenryaku Ofukurosama, set in a traditional Japanese restaurant, and looked up to a life as a chef. At age 19, he decided to attend a culinary school and chose Japanese cuisine as his speciality. He also built up his experience by working at established restaurants like Keio Plaza Hotel and the Esquire Club. When he was 25 years old, he began working as a sushi chef in Otaru. He opened his own sushi bar Sushidoko Ogura in 2000. In 2013, he unfortunately had to close it and moved to Tokyo to join Sushiichi in Ginza. This opened up an opportunity for him to work for their Singapore branch. He moved to Hokkaido and joined Sushi Shin in May 2018.

Together, the two experienced chefs want to create a fantastic restaurant with great sushi, ambiance and service.

VISION
In addition to entertaining international foodies in Niseko, the chefs also venture outside Japan and host pop up events in other countries. They have previously travelled to Macau and Singapore with a mission to spread the culture of sushi to other parts of the world. They also have plans to open a second Sushi Shin restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental in Tokyo in 2019.

SAKE

It’s all about finding sakes that pair well with sushi. Located near the Niseki Shuzo brewery, the chefs at Sushi Shin can get access to some rare vintages. Sampling a variety of sake may be a fun way to taste the best of the region. They stock exceptional finds like Kokuryu Muni, a new brand that became very popular in 2018 for being the first to use French wine maturation techniques in sake making. Some bottles auctioned for as high as 200,000 yen. When you order sake, the waitress will bring you a beautiful box, filled with assortment of cups. Each cup is unique in size, material, color and texture, making the drinking even more fun and special.