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Ishikawa

Taheisushi

太平寿し

In the heart of the ancient capital of Kanazawa, an old local sushi bar has over time transformed itself into an exquisite culinary experience. Wrapped in a warm ambiance, the cuisine at Taheisushi celebrates both the best of Hokuriku ingredients and the depth of craftsmanship. As one of the most popular spots for traveling gourmands, make sure to book your seats well in advance.

Taheisushi was established in 1972 by the charismatic owner, Shinjiro Takatani, and his brother, in a quiet residential area on the west-end of the city. The brother later opened the Katamachi branch, and the two continued to build their restaurants as the homey, neighborhood eateries.

From about 25 years ago, the restaurant began enhancing the menu with top quality fish and unique ideas. The word about the renewed Taheisushi began spreading. By the time Takatani passed away in March 2018, it had become one of the difficult restaurants to get into in Kanazawa. The baton was then passed to one of his younger family members, Koji Mukono, who had been training there for two decades.

Kind and warm-hearted, Mukono has taken on the head chef role with great compassion and dedication. Honoring all that he’s learned from the former generation, he focuses on curating his own style that is true to the essence of Kanazawa. The superb selection of traditional Kutani ware, an old craft that is local to the region, adds a deeper aesthetic to the dining experience.

The space has an inviting and comfortable atmosphere, set with traditional decor. The geometric kasane igeta crests, a symbol of prosperity, are found on various walls around the restaurant. The open counter seats ten guests while there are two private rooms with tables and chairs for a quieter setting.

Open for both lunch and dinner, the restaurant also delivers to nearby neighborhoods, as you can spot the stacks of circular sushi trays on the shelf behind the kitchen. With the restaurant booked out almost every day, there really is no spare moment for the chef.

“I realize it’s a heavy load to manage, but I want to continue serving our important customers,” he says.

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CUISINE

Honoring all that was learned from the former generation.

The seasonal omakase menu follows no traditional order. To create a unique rhythm, he likes to serve some nigiris early in the meal, while holding some small dishes until the end. The chef’s rule of thumb is that the experience has to be as delectable for those who love a drink or just green tea.

As a way to showcase the variety and contrast of flavors, Mukono puts together a trio of delicacies on a single plate. Served side by side are a piece of red snail shellfish, a slice of local snapper sashimi and a grouper nigiri. The snapper is infused with drops of ponzu citrus sauce. The grouper is paired with sansho pepper leaves.

Served on a colorful Kutani ware bowl, the signature blackthroat seaperch is steamed with sake until soft and tender. Instead of using shari rice, the fish is draped over a morsel of grated daikon radish. The moist texture of the white fish is simply unforgettable. Another winter delicacy is the creamy fish milt. Mounted on top of yuzu citrus-flavored shari, the contrast of flavor is delightful.

The next dish brings out the deepest flavors in a piece of mackerel using two totally different approaches. On one side is a piece of marinated mackerel, or shime saba, which has been cured with salt for about an hour and then in vinegar for 25 minutes. On the other is a piece of bozushi, or stick sushi, which is rolled with sesame seeds, pickled ginger and a sheet of white kombu. The roll is made earlier in the day to make sure the flavors meld together.

Behind every dish are works of craftsmanship. Amaebi sweet shrimp is sweet and plump, topped with shrimp eggs and sea urchin to enjoy the harmony of flavors. The fatty piece of yellowtail is worked in with meticulous knife slits and lightly seared on the surface. Served with grated daikon radish and drizzled with nihaisu soy vinegar, the different textures and tastes blend together beautifully.

The marbled piece of chutoro from a 100 kg catch off the shores of Katsuura in Chiba Prefecture. The red squid has such a fresh but also sweet flavor, and its unique texture lingers on your tongue. The piece of salt-water eel is so fluffy and packed with umami.

INGREDIENTS
Everyday, Mukono selects at least ten to twelve fresh catches. More than half are usually sourced from local ports. He visits the Honcho market three to four times a week. He has a special route for tuna from vendors outside Ishikawa Prefecture.

The rice used for the shari is aged Hitomebore grains from Yamagata Prefecture. The vinegar is a blend of three different vintages. The wasabi comes from Shuzenji.

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Taheisushi cuisine #1

CHEF

Koji Mukono

Koji Mukono was born in Kanazawa in 1977. His family was an extended family of Shinjiro Takatani. From an early age, he often used to visit Taheisushi and grew up watching the master chef perform his sushi skills. When Takatani later asked him to join the restaurant, it was only natural for him to say yes.

Besides Takatani, the older apprentices of Taheisushi played a key role in mentoring Mukono. They would teach him not just the basics but also the importance of having the right mindset. “When you are rolling a piece of sushi in your hand, you need to do it delicately as holding a woman’s hand,” they would say.

Over the next 19 years, he continued to build his consciousness as a sushi master and worked towards perfecting his skills. When Takatani passed away in 2018, Mukono took on Taheisushi. Every day since has been about expressing what he’s learned through each dish he puts on the counter.
“Roll the feeling of sadness with warmth, and express joy with a kick of wasabi,” he remembers the former owner used to say.

His grateful, modest and compassionate nature is reflected in every dish you savor at Taheisushi.

VISION
Taheisushi has trained many young talents. Their former apprentices have now graduated to build their own restaurants including Sushi Hachiya and Aiji, right here in the heart of Kanazawa. The restaurant currently has four younger chefs who are training hard to someday open their own establishments as well. Mukono strives to be their best mentor and role model to them. He also oversees the sushi restaurant inside the Nikko Hotel Kanazawa.

SAKE

The sake selection at Taheisushi features local artisan vintages only. The rule of thumb is that the drink doesn’t interfere with the delicate flavors of the meal. Every bottle of sake changes over time so the chef and staff taste the sakes regularly to check on their condition before serving them to guests. While they love renowned brands like Tedorigawa from Yoshida Shuzoten, Mukono also incorporates new vintages such as U Yoshidagura, a bottle made by a group of younger generation craftsman from the brewery. “When you travel to a sushi restaurant somewhere far, you would want to enjoy their local sake,” he says.

Course

Lunch/ Dinner
Taheisushi Omakase course
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
¥18,000
¥18,000
Reservation Request
Lunch/ Dinner
Taheisushi Omakase course (More luxurious ingredients)
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
¥21,500
¥21,500
Reservation Request

Ishikawa

Taheisushi

太平寿し

PRICE
¥18,000
~
CHILD
0
& UP
PRIVATE ROOM
For 2-12 people
LUNCH
OPEN
MIN GUESTS
1
PERSON
~
GENRE
Sushi, Kanazawa
ADDRESS
1F, 1 Chome-164 Taheiji, Nonoichi, Ishikawa 921-8845, Japan
OPEN
Lunch: 11:30-13:00 (LO) Dinner:17:30-19:30 (LO)
CLOSED
Wednesday
URL
NA
PHONE
+81 76-248-5131

RESERVATION

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