Tokyo

Pellegrino

ペレグリーノ

Innovative, eye-opening and deeply satisfying. The chef pursues clean simplicity and pure flavor in an unconventional service style that allows him to give the lucky six guests his best each day. An authentic man who approaches every aspect of his work with sincerity, the depth of his experience in Italy is reflected in his delicious cuisine.

Pellegrino is situated on a quiet block in the neighborhood of Ebisu, having relocated from Nishi-Azabu five years ago. The warm orange exterior, gold lettering and silhouette of a falcon lead you to the door. The name and motifs were inspired by a kanji character found in the chef’s first name: hayabusa, or peregrine falcon.

Once inside the restaurant, guests are seated parallel to the kitchen, almost like counter seating and yet with the privacy you expect from fine dining. From every seat your taste buds will be tempted as you witness chef Takahashi preparing his beautiful food in breathtaking moves, transforming premium produce into incredible plates one after another. Every moment in these front-row seats is meaningful. Takahashi takes care of food preparation and service all by himself, which is why all diners start at the same time. It’s a style that allows him to be spontaneous, adapting elements on the fly, and maintaining his obsession with serving his own cuisine.

The traditional Italian decorated ceiling is the work of an artisan that beautifully complements the pure tones of the interior accented by antique furniture. Timeless elegance can also be seen in the Richard Ginori tableware – colorful pieces from a company that began producing in 1735. Such traditional elements are juxtaposed with modernity as seen in the paintings – all works by artist and musician Tara Jane O’Neil – and the music compilation of the chef’s favorites, including Sonic Youth.

Innovative, eye-opening and deeply satisfying.

Takahashi’s dish composition places utmost importance on seasonality and freshness with an emphasis on aromas. He takes his love of Parma flavors and passes them through his personal filter resulting in brilliant recreations. The chef’s degustation course for six guests is served in two parts. Part one is an array of dishes showcasing seasonal produce: moreish bites, a small appetizer, a seasonal vegetable dish, warm appetizer, specialty pasta and lastly, a meat dish. Part two shifts the focus to the central meat slicer from which Takahashi presents five freshly sliced varieties in peak condition - this part of dinner will blow your mind. The meal draws to a close with dessert and a small baked treat.

Exquisite chicken broth is drawn from the bones of whole Nagano Gitaro shamo chicken over 20 hours at barely a simmer. Served in an espresso cup, the small amount with stunning transparency packs a punch with flavor. Anago eel from Tsushima, Nagasaki, is simply outstanding with the perfect cook and seasoning, served with white asparagus from France’s Loire Valley. Chiba Prefecture flounder rested for several days gives the chef the perfect opportunity to demonstrate his seemingly simple yet highly skilled techniques, including chargrilling with Binchotan charcoals. Charred to aromatic perfection on the outside and heated to medium within, Takahashi conveys each ingredient’s true flavor in a concise and direct manner. Topped with a salsa verde using seasonal herbs like parsley, the fish dish is given a dash of Veneto olive oil just before service.

Pigeon from Landes, southwest France, is cooked over charcoals for just five to eight minutes and accompanied by Italian artichokes, the chef’s signature sauce, and Taiwanese pepper — a twist you were not expecting. Oysters are slow cooked in a circulator for 40 to 50 minutes in white wine vinegar and olive oil, then served with red radicchio from northern Italy, topped with crushed pistachios. From Ajigasawa, Aomori Prefecture, squid laden with eggs has a wonderful springy texture, served in burnt fermented butter sauce with southern Italian puntarelle, a variety of chicory.

Each new dish is accompanied by a new libation; served as either alcohol or nonalcohol pairing courses. The wine selection is deeply rooted in Italy but includes French and even Slovenian varieties that pair wonderfully with the Pellegrino cuisine.

INGREDIENTS
Chef Takahashi chose the global hub of Tokyo for his restaurant as it allows him to source all the best ingredients required for his exquisite cuisine. Gitaro shamo chicken from Ina, Nagano Prefecture, has featured on Takahashi’s menu since day one. Seafood products are primarily sourced through Toyosu market, but some specific ingredients like sea urchin and sujiara coral trout are sent direct from Amakusa, Kumamoto. Specialty Italian and European vegetables are shipped from overseas, and chef Takahashi has an array of salt varieties at his fingertips, including French sea salt. His cured meats selection includes prosciutto from San Daniele del Friuli in the northern Italian region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia; mortadella from Bologna; cured backfat lard from Cinta Senese black pigs raised in Siena, Toscana; Prosciutto di Parma from Parma, Emilia-Romagna; and Culatello di Zibello – the king of Italian cured ham – a rare and very costly variety only a handful of producers in Italy’s Parma region are allowed to produce.

CHEF

Hayao Takahashi

Hayato Takahashi, born 1978, is a Niigata native. While on a working holiday to New Zealand, he was blown away by the pasta served as a staff meal at his restaurant, and thereafter propelled on the course of Italian chef. Upon his return to Japan, Takahashi traveled to Tokushima to work at an Italian restaurant for three years before heading off again to Canada for work. Stints at ristorante in Ashiya and Marunouchi helped Takahashi polish his skills back at home, but he got itchy feet again and moved to Italy at 28.

His new culinary home was Trattoria Le Viole in the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy. The service style that inspired Takahashi most during that time was the performance element of slicing prosciutto at diners’ tables. And the flavors were simply outstanding, too. In Italy, having a meat slicer is a kind of status symbol. Takahashi’s first purchase back in Japan was a manual slicer, to be the centerpiece of his brand-new restaurant where he would wow guests with both performance and incredible flavors. He opened Pellegrino in March 2009 and later moved to Ebisu.

When discussing his career, Takahashi speaks humbly suggesting that he’s somehow found himself where he is now, but it’s clear that his determination and passion make him a treasure among chefs. Setting limited service days to ensure premium cuisine, Takahashi uses his free days for preparation and exploring new places and foods.

VISION
Chef Takahashi wants to stay true to himself serving simply delicious cuisine. Preparing all the food and drinks himself for a maximum of six guests each day, over just four days a week, he feels he’s found the perfect style to ensure exquisite flavors. About five years ago, he was awarded the title of Parma ham specialist and continues his singular pursuit of unparalleled flavor today.

MEAT SLICER

Taking pride of place in the middle of the restaurant is Takahashi’s hand-crank cured meats slicer. A product of traditional slicer brand Berkel, established 1898, the proof of the chef’s premium taste can be seen in the machine’s lot number. Paint is applied in seven layers to achieve the signature “Berkel red” color and the restaurant’s peregrine falcon logo can be found beneath. When Takahashi purchased the slicer in December 2018, it was the only one in all of Asia. Now the Berkel company has an office in Japan with staff who visit periodically for maintenance, allowing Takahashi to serve in the very best condition every day.