Chef Murata says the three keys to Japanese cuisine are perfume, texture and the element of surprise. Each is essential and without the surprise component, the diner’s response to a meal is at best indifference and at worst, boredom. The surprise can come through flavor, appearance or the story behind a dish – no matter what, it must be there. He firmly believes that people seek fine dining for entertainment, just like a concert, play or opera.

Kikunoi’s cuisine aspires for an aesthetic ideal found in tea ceremony called kireisabi, which can be translated as ‘rustic elegance’. It demonstrates refined beauty without showy or flashy elements, and it is subdued but still shows vigor – not overly delicate or frail. The cuisine manages to stay ahead of trends whilst also maintaining traditions. The menu changes between the 20th and 25th of each month and the following is just a taste of the incredible dishes that may be found in the early spring Yayoi degustation menu, following the pattern of a traditional Kaiseki meal. Hidden plum is a sakizuke amuse-bouche in which an umeboshi pickled plum is nestled beneath shirako soft cod roe and adorned with a peach blossom. This bite-sized treat has beautiful rounded flavor and sets the tone with seasonal motifs alluding to the plum trees blossoming outside and the peach flowers a reference to the Doll’s Festival held on March 3rd.

A special course containing a selection of seasonal delicacies from the mountains and seas called hassun comes with the especially charming presentation of decorative stacked boxes tied with pink cord. Your heart beats as you unwrap this stunning gift from the chef, revealing vegetables enveloped in young sansho leaves, ice goby fish sushi, octopus, mountain vegetables such as warabi bracken and udo shaped into flower petals, as well as the Kyoto specialty of Kintoki red carrots and carrot tops in a mustard sesame sauce.

Later, when it is time for the grilled course known as yakimono, you may be treated to the prized tilefish known as guji, specially prepared in a breading of dried mullet roe, with donko shiitake mushrooms that mature slowly over the winter locking in rich flavors. These delectable components are all served on a stunning plate created by the revered artist Rosanjin. The seemingly simple dish will absolutely wow you with its flavors.

INGREDIENTS
One of the keys to Kikunoi’s ability to create superb seasonal food is the fact that the chefs visit the source of their ingredients. It is not uncommon to find them helping in the fields of farmers growing their beloved Kyoto vegetables. One story goes that no matter how long they waited, a chef who had gone to collect produce just didn’t come back, only to be found completely absorbed in field work. These face-to-face interactions ensure a better understanding of the ingredients and procurement of items of a quality far superior to what can be found in the markets.

Approximately 30 years ago, a group of chefs concerned about the diminishing resources of Kyoto vegetables set about revitalizing production of the richly colored and flavored vegetables Kyoto had once been famous for. They visited farmers who had preserved seeds of traditional vegetables and were growing them just for personal consumption, begging them to start growing more with a guarantee that they would buy whatever was produced irrespective of its shape and appearance. Word spread, and production has increased to levels meaning that these unique vegetables can be found in marketplaces once again. Premium seafood, including the plump and succulent sea bream found in the course, comes from a fishmonger in Akashi on the Seto Inland Sea whose relationship with Kikunoi goes back decades. Chef Murata even boarded the boats in his younger days, learning the keys to selecting the best seafood and the best way to showcase each variety’s flavors, be it with some interventions such as grilling, or the simple direct style of sashimi.

Many Kikunoi guests time their visits with their favorite seasonal items. Ayu sweetfish, an ingredient intrinsically linked with early summer, all comes from a trusted supplier on Lake Biwa in neighboring Shiga Prefecture. And Murata is quick to mention that he does not limit himself to Kyoto and surrounds in his search for the best. An outstanding ingredient is welcome in the kitchens of Kikunoi wherever it comes from in Japan. A special space in just one corner of Kikunoi’s vast grounds is where all the ingredients are managed, and from here, twice a week, precious cargo makes its way to Kikunoi’s restaurant in Tokyo.