Chef Murata is certain that Roan Kikunoi’s cuisine rivals that of its partner restaurant Kikunoi. And a major part of its appeal is the presentation element made possible with the counter seating. Bamboo shoots are a spring delicacy and Murata makes an elaborate process out of their presentation to whet his guests’ appetites. Bamboo grass is placed on charcoals, on top of which is placed half a large bamboo shoot in its thick sheath. The dish arrives before the guest just as the aromatic steam begins to rise, and the flavors are irresistible. This is the yakimono grilled course using an earthen charcoal brazier made by Nakagawa Ippento from Shigaraki Kumoigama kiln, which first opened in 1765 and remains the favorite among top chefs around Japan for earthenware pots.

The bamboo shoot dish demonstrates Chef Murata’s proficiency at the bold and splendid, but the hassun seasonal platter proves he is just as skillful at delicate knifework and measured placement. Sea bream sushi with young sansho leaves, cuttlefish, octopus, a kurumaebi prawn and firefly squid showcase ingredients from the sea, playfully and beautifully accented by ingredients from the mountains: a butterfly-shaped slice of mountain yam, the curled frond of bracken, miso-marinated avocado, fava beans, and decorative udo and lily bulb ‘petals’.

In the degustation menu following the pattern of a traditional Kaiseki meal, next is the mukozuke featuring freshly caught Akashi sea bream with kinmedai fish in a refreshing ponzu gelee. The lidded dish reveals what may be more appropriately described as a work of art. It is a picture of spring with a parcel of tilefish enveloping glutinous rice, all wrapped in salted sakura leaves and steamed, and dotted with tiny crunchy rice crackers and pink sakura flowers. The aromas when you lift the lid instantly transport you to the perfect spot under the fully bloomed cherry blossoms. The shiizakana dish is a wonderful complement to sake with shabu-shabu of Shikoku abalone served alongside bamboo shoots, wakame and canola flowers, with an abalone liver dipping sauce, making the most of every part of each ingredient.

The menu changes around the 25th of each month, condensing the flavors of each season into a beautifully presented story. The key seasonal ingredient is always found in the chef’s special earthenware pot steamed rice. Featured in spring are bamboo shoots, followed by Akashi sea bream, and then ayu sweetfish in the rainy season. A special Kyoto favorite, hamo daggertooth pike conger, makes an appearance around the time of Kyoto’s famous Gion Festival in July. Autumn brings heady aromatic matsutake mushrooms foraged from the mountains, then ikura salmon roe before winter’s harsh cold brings the chance to showcase root vegetables. The occasional appearance of premium Western ingredients like foie gras or truffles show the chef’s flexibility, surprising and delighting guests at the same time.

INGREDIENTS
The key to delicious yet delicate dashi that forms the basis of Japanese cuisine is kombu kelp. Chef Murata uses the highest grade Kafuku kombu from Okui Kaiseido based in Fukui Prefecture, which first opened for trading in 1871. Added to this are the precious bonito flakes called katsuobushi, of which Murata uses the honkare variety made in Makurazaki, Kagoshima Prefecture, the most famous production area in Japan. These fine ingredients are secured through a dry goods store in Kyoto run by relatives of the producers themselves, and it is this tight-knit trust network that ensures a steady supply of premium ingredients such as these.

Japanese-style creamy soup made from peas, spinach, spring cabbage and other greens makes a regular appearance on the menu, and the chef is also fond of developing tasty clear broth from vegetables. Kyoto vegetables come through contracted farmers in each region and bamboo shoots are delivered direct from the source in Ohara. Chef Murata is especially proud of the incredibly fresh seafood delivered daily from Awaji, bringing the bounties of the Seto Inland Sea to Roan: sea bream, sawara Spanish mackerel, kuruma ebi shrimp, and akagai red clams.