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Ishikawa

SHÓKUDŌ YArn

SHÓKUDŌ YArn

In a sleepy suburban town in eastern Japan, a young couple is setting off a new gastronomic revolution. Inspired by lessons learned at El Bulli, the famed modern restaurant of Spain, SHÓKUDŌ YArn reimagines Japanese comfort food under a new perspective, transforming old recipes into eclectic and creative culinary sensations in the most extraordinary way.

Mr. and Mrs. Yoneda returned to their hometown of Komatsu to open their dream restaurant after journeying through the best of contemporary gastronomy across Europe. Their training began in Spain, then Italy, and back in Japan at a traditional Japanese restaurant. Their experience melds Spanish, Italian, French and Japanese elements across different genres, making it difficult to categorize their final product. What allows it to all come together is their shared passion for food, curiosity to experiment, and incredible sense of hospitality.

Located in the middle of a quiet residential neighborhood, it’s not hard to spot the black wooden architecture that resembles a little modern art gallery. You swing the door open, and a whole new world awaits. At the center of the building is an open courtyard surrounded by large glass panels that give a full view of the neat garden from the inside. An ancient olive tree, close to 300 years old, stretches towards the sunlight.

The simple wooden tables are set by the windows so that the guests can enjoy the little eden, and also gaze over at the open kitchen on the other side of the courtyard. The kitchen is spotless and minimalist, almost like some kind of a laboratory. Here, you can follow Mr. and Mrs. Yoneda’s every move as they conduct their culinary experiments using state-of-the-art appliances.

Renovating an old yarn factory that was passed down in Mrs. Yoneda’s family, the wooden interior of the restaurant is warm and inviting. Working closely with a local architect, the couple tried to keep the original architecture of the factory as much as possible. For example, the main beams were kept intact, adding a sense of history to the space. To also incorporate their own identity, they spent a lot of time with him to share their vision and had him taste their unique cuisine.

Just like a single yarn is created by twisting many yarns together, the restaurant's name symbolizes the couple’s wish to creating a special cuisine that combines various elements of their experiences. “We hope that you will be one of the yarns,” the couple invites each guests to understand and share their philosophy.

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CUISINE

No single word to describe YArn

There is no single word that best describes the cuisine of SHÓKUDŌ YArn. While the root of the recipes may be traditional Japanese, each dish is complex with European overlays as well as modern twists. It is perhaps most accurate to say the meal here is homemade cooking à la fusion.

The starting course is a set of little curious experiences. To start, the seemingly ordinary bowl of matcha green tea is spiced with ginger ale. While the tea is brewed using the most traditional techniques, the warm, fizzy, sweet liquid is nothing like you’ve ever tasted before as it slowly seeps through your empty stomach.

Next to the matcha bowl is a pretty little spoon with a bite of soft nerikiri mochi dough, infused with aromatic olive oil and salted cherry blossom petals. Placed neatly on top of black rocks, are slices of aged prosciutto ham. As a seasonal welcome, the bites are served along with a branch of pretty cherry blossom.

The Yoneda couple brings on both humor and irony with the next dish. Addressing the overly commercialized food industry, two little “Yärngen-Datz” ice cups come in a plastic bag with a “Yarnson” sticker, mimicking Japan’s convenience store giant Lawson. Inside the easily-recognizable packaging is fukinoto (butterbur sprouts) ice cream, bringing fresh breeze of spring in a surprising match of refreshing bitterness and creamy sweetness. The delicious cold treats are topped with layers of rosemary tentsuyu jelly and fried tempura crumbs.

A Japanese mother’s classic dish, nikujyaga, becomes a curious experience at SHÓKUDŌ YArn. The beef and potato stew mixes up three different type of potatoes, each unique in flavor, prepared using a special technique for delicious creamy texture. As if a page from a science textbook, the chef has handwritten the names of the potatoes on the plate with arrows pointing to each piece, and topped with beautiful umbrella like flat leaves. A salad to drink? In a beautiful round wine glass is a magical and colorful salad, layering wasabi leaves, mustard leaves, mizuna leaves, lotus roots and tapioka. The salad is drizzled with a dashi broth dressing that brings all the different flavors together, and topped with a lovely little purple flower.

The next dish is a visual riddle. In front of you are a blocks of chocolate alongside a bowl of udon noodles. The dish, chokotto hotaruika, means “a little bit of firefly squid.” As the play on words suggest, the brown blocks are an unheard blend of firefly squid, dried tomatoes, miso paste, dashi, cocoa butter and olives. They slowly melt on top of the warm noodles, transforming into a rich creamy sauce.

Then, a true signature dish. The One, which sounds like wan, Japanese for soup, is made right in front of your eyes. Using a tall classic syphon coffee maker, Mr. Yoneda, brews a blend of aged Hokkaido kombu and dried tuna flakes, leashing whiffs of the sea to the air. He then mixes sake into the warm broth and pours it on a bed of colorful seasonal vegetables and red seabream fish cakes. Tossed with truffles, the aroma alone is so complex and so delicious.

The next sweet and light delicacy is Miringo, a fusion of mirin and apple (ringo) as the fun naming suggests. Like a delicate piece of sculpture, finely sliced dried apples are placed on top of a piece of sponge and mirin-flavored ice cream. The sourness and sweetness create a perfect balance.

The final dish is a tasty treasure hunt. Named Okashii, which means both “snack” and “strange,” Mr. Yoneda has hidden pebbles of delicious dark chocolates in a pile of real rocks. The chocolates are such perfect replicas, you may have to pop them in your mouth to know if you made the right pick!

Ingredients
Most of the produce used at SHÓKUDŌ YArn are grown locally, either in Ishikawa or neighboring prefectures. The fish are sourced from ports in Noto. For vegetables, the couple often visits the central market in Kanazawa as well as local farms to meet and get to know the producers directly. They are committed to growing a strong sense of community through their unique and dynamic cuisine.

SHÓKUDŌ YArn cuisine #0
SHÓKUDŌ YArn cuisine #1

CHEF

Mr. and Mrs. Yoneda

Together since high school, Mr. and Mrs. Yoneda have been partners for more than half of their lives. Growing up in Komatsu, Mr. Yoneda always loved to cook but never thought about becoming a chef. Instead, he studied science in university while Mrs. Yoneda began working in medical business.

During junior year of college, Mr. Yoneda visited Italy for the first time. Moved by the Italian’s dedication to food, it was there that he discovered his inner desire to pursue a culinary career. Upon graduation, he flies back to Italy to start working in restaurants. Mrs. Yoneda joined him there to become a patissier. After 5 fruitful years, they relocated to Spain where he worked for distinguished restaurants like El Celler de Can Roca, Martín Berasategui and Mugaritz.

The most inspiring experience came to him when he joined the kitchen of El Bulli—what many consider to be the world’s most important restaurant in modern gastronomy. There, Ferran Adrià called his cuisine an creative investigation, where the approach was to come up with something new every time. It was there that Mr. and Mrs. Yoneda set their hearts on dedicating their next phase of their life in reimagining traditional Japanese cooking.

While abroad, Mr. Yoneda also realized he lacked understanding of his own culture and cuisine. So upon returning to Japan, he decided to go through more training by working at a traditional kaiseki restaurant in Kanazawa called Tsuzura. As an eager student, he also earned his license as a sommelier and also as a fugu (blowfish) chef. At age 40, he finally decided to open a restaurant he could call his own. Having gone through so many different experiences in various countries, the couple knew exactly what they wanted their restaurant to be—to reimagine Japanese cuisine under a new perspective. Their final product is experimental, creative and unique, a new kind of fusion cuisine that is also somehow close to home cooking.

Vision
“Why do we make the food we make, right here and right now?” Mr. Yoneda says is a question he always asks himself. “I want local and global guests to understand our concept and help spread the idea.” In order to build a sense of community through food, he has initiated a number of local volunteer projects such as inviting foster children to cook and eat at SHÓKUDŌ YArn. He also hopes to start catering meals to terminal cancer patients at local hospitals.

“I want more people in our community to come together and experience joy through food.” To reflect this vision, the first word of the restaurant’s name means cafeteria, or canteen, in Japanese. It’s a place for everyone.

Course

Lunch
YArn Lunch Menu
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
¥10,500
¥10,500
Reservation Request
Dinner
SHÓKUDŌ YArn short Menu
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
¥14,000
¥14,000
Reservation Request
Dinner
SHÓKUDŌ YArn Menu
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
¥20,000
¥20,000
Reservation Request

Ishikawa

SHÓKUDŌ YArn

SHÓKUDŌ YArn

PRICE
¥10,500
~
CHILD
10
& UP
LUNCH
OPEN
MIN GUESTS
1
PERSON
~
GENRE
Fusion, Komatsu
ADDRESS
1F, 1-37-1 Yoshitakemachi, Komatsushi, Ishikawa, Japan
OPEN
12:00-13:00 (LO), 18:00-19:30(LO)
CLOSED
Sunday and Monday
URL
NA
PHONE
+81-76-158-1058

RESERVATION

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