At the heart of the bustling Tokyo restaurant scene, a rising star chef is redefining the way of Edomae sushi. Melding classic craftsmanship with eccentric ideas, Sushi Hashimoto curates a new world of his own that stages an imaginative, stimulating and delicious experience.
Since opening in 2014, Sushi Hashimoto has become a favorite among serious foodies who have instantly fallen for the young master’s dynamic cuisine. Located in an old Tokyo district close to the Tsukiji fish market, it’s always a challenge to get a reservation here, with only 8 seats available in the entire restaurant.
“I wanted to be in a neighborhood that felt at home and familiar,” Hiroyuki Hashimoto says.
Born as a son of a sushi master, the traditional cuisine has been a part of Hashimoto’s life from the start. With the knowledge and skills he acquired at Miyako Sushi, he is among the few young chefs who truly understand the traditions of Edomae sushi but is also unafraid to push the cuisine to a whole new territory.
The entrance of the restaurant is elegant and inviting. A beautiful olive green noren curtain hangs over the door, with a large print of an ivy crest at center and calligraphy of the restaurant’s name, written by the chef’s mother. Matching the season or the weather or maybe just a feeling, Hashimoto chooses from four different colors of curtains: olive, white, scarlet red and navy blue. Every detail reflects his tasteful aesthetics.
Inside, the square room is set with a counter, chairs and ceiling, all made from different shades of wood. For the corner countertop and the large cutting board, he uses the remaining half of the log that his father bought 15 years ago to make his sushi bar counter in Fukushima. It reminds Hashimoto the importance of appreciating the support of his family that has helped him realize his dream.
Unique in scent, temperature and depth of flavor.
Made up of seven small dishes and twelve sushi, the course at Hashimoto flows beautifully, with each dish unique in scent, temperature and depth of flavor. Behind the open counter, the chef moves with great rhythm and swiftness as he perfects one dish to the next.
“There is a limit in how good the ingredients can be, so technique becomes key,” the master chef explains.
Each piece of sushi is hidden with secret Edomae techniques to maximize its potential. Spanish mackerel is smoked for a deeper flavor while the boiled octopus stays marinated in broth for two days. Hashimoto’s vinegared rice uses a good pinch of salt that matches so well with the strong yet delicate flavors of the fish.
Serving the fish with the skin is Hashimoto-style. Prepared with perfectly aligned slits, the texture of the skin adds complexity while the fat offers sweetness. It creates a perfect balance for fish like red snapper or gizzard shad, which are salted for days to condense the umami.
Tuna, the king of sushi, is served in two parts. First, the akami, the learner part of tuna, is sliced generously so that it blankets over the rice, and infused with the sweetness of soy sauce. The fatty tuna is glistening with its sweet fat and melts instantly in your mouth. One fish but two completely different experiences.
Chawan mushi, a classic Japanese steamed egg custard, has become one of their signature dishes. Instead of ordinary ingredients like chicken and mushroom, Hashimoto chooses sakura shrimp and yurine is his original recipe. Yurine, the bulb of the lily plant, is sauteed in olive oil for a richer and sweeter aroma. Delicate and savory, the unusual dish astonishes every guest.
Next is a plate of three delicacies from the seas. Beautifully arranged on a single ceramic, the assortment is made up of monkfish liver, firefly squid in miso and plump pieces of mantis shrimp. “Hashimoto’s ankimo (monkfish liver) is extraordinary,” comments some fans as they continue to come back for more.
The Japanese-style rolled omelet is also no ordinary omelet. The eggs are slow cooked, taking as long as 30-40 min in just the right amount of dashi, giving them that soft and smooth texture. Sliced into squares with the dark burn on the top, they look like pieces of sweet castella sponge cakes.
Hashimoto takes daily trip to Tsukiji, taking full advantage of how his restaurant is so close to the fish market. For tuna, he selects those caught using set nets or fished with a pole and line as they tend to have a deeper umami with a balance of acidity, aroma and fat.
The rice is a blend of Nanatsuboshi, Tsuyahime and Koshihikari brands. The carefully-selected mix allows you to savor and feel each grain in your mouth. The vinegar is a blend of Yokoi and red Mitsukan. Tatsumi soy sauce from Ehime is full of umami.
Since his time as a starting chef, Hashimoto has accumulated a collection of sake cups and bottles from private exhibitions and galleries. A true ceramic lover, he would visit his favorite artists’ kiln like Asato Ikeda and Fujinoki Dohei to learn more about their work and vision. Some pieces are truly unique including bottles that stand slanted and purple coiled cups. To bring these sakeware to life, he stocks a diverse collection of 20 or so high quality sake, from light bodies to deeper flavors to match the variety of fish and dishes.
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ￥8,000