TABLEALL

RESERVATIONS

Close
Nihonryori Komatsu main image

Hokkaido

Nihonryori Komatsu

日本料理 こまつ

Infused with the splendor of Hokkaido from the scenery surrounding you to every scrumptious bite, to dine at Nihonryori Komatsu is to be enchanted by the highest level of elegance, sophistication and Japanese hospitality.

Making the most of the splendid riverside setting in the Maruyama Park area of Sapporo with a panorama of tall swaying trees, this restaurant of Japanese cuisine offers full view of the seasonal flora, the shifts in which drive the incredible ingredients presented to you in each dish. It’s just a short drive from central Sapporo with its city blocks of buildings filled with eateries, but you could be forgiven for thinking you had been transported into the woods. A simple golden building surrounded by trees, you arrive at the restaurant and pass through the draped noren decorated with a single pine tree and down an unadorned flight of stairs. In that moment it feels like you have put nature behind you and then there it is again, on full display through the floor-to-ceiling glass window. Many cannot take their eyes off it: the lush green of summer, autumn’s array of warm colors, the pure white snow-blanket of winter, and the delicate buds and blossoms that send a message of spring.

The space has a very strong sense of the private, designed by Komatsu to draw his own focus sharply onto his cuisine after having worked at a large establishment for so many years. Whether seated at a table or the counter, the chef strikes up conversation with the most wonderful timing. He has an outstanding sense of guests’ needs in each moment, making you feel almost no distance at all from him.

MORE

CUISINE

The highest level of elegance and sophistication

Masterful incorporation of local ingredients in a stroll through the present moment pique guests’ awareness of the blessings of each season, panning in from the landscape outside to the flower arrangements, tableware and local produce within. The menu is created based on the ingredients arriving in the kitchen each morning; you may only meet those dishes for one or a few days at the peak of the ingredient’s season. Add to that stunning presentation ranging from extreme minimalism to an elaborate display of pine needles or autumn leaves, the journey through Komatsu’s plates adopts varied levels of stimulation and tempo inviting excited anticipation for what may come next.

In simmered dishes, Chef Komatsu uses a combination of Rausu and Hidaka kombu. His dashi for soup, however, is made from Rishiri kombu and premium bonito flakes shaved from bonito blocks fermented with wild yeast and allowed to dry through an entirely natural process. He also edits the base stock enabling him to showcase key flavors, for example, infusing flavor from sea bream fish heads when sea bream is the main ingredient. The bowl arrives with its lid firmly in place; the excitement of discovering what is within is like opening a special gift. Wild-caught Funka Bay sea bream and glossy Daikoku shimeji mushrooms are topped with perfect rounds of brilliant green zest – the source of those incredible aromas the moment you opened the lid.

Charcoal-grilled sawara, Japanese Spanish mackerel, is generously topped with luscious homemade bottarga and served in a brilliant crimson dish certain to appeal with its warm tones and intricate hand-painted design. More magnificent presentation follows with a black cast iron pot the backdrop to pearly abalone resting in its iridescent shell with tones of emerald green, adorned simply with a trio of ginkgo nuts. The abalone liver has been pureed and combined with soy sauce, and the perfect bite-size pieces are a show of consideration for guests, making eating easier without interfering with the enjoyment of the deliciously meaty, chewy flesh.

A typical sashimi course includes a selection of raw fish. Komatsu, however, hopes guests will truly savor the unique flavors and textures of just one variety. Biting into the glistening silver skin of lightly pressed saba mackerel reveals luscious fatty flesh with a clean finish that you will never forget. For a warm appetizer, a meaty piece of hair crab rests on top of richly aromatic grilled miso inside a vessel made from carved-out yuzu fruit. On a bed of pine needles atop of an individual charcoal brazier, the use of presentation elements is as superb as the flavors of the edible ones, and the wafting aromas coax and tease, whetting the appetite for the next dish to come. A perfectly ripe persimmon cup contains a dish dressed in a tofu, white miso and persimmon vinegar sauce and the resulting flavors are reminiscent of cheese. Next to it, beneath a veil of autumn leaves is sumptuous Wakayama Prefecture ayu sweetfish that has been lovingly prepared in a three-day process involving simmering, drying, boiling and grilling. The closing dish of perfectly steamed white rice is topped with exquisite seasonal produce like a luscious piece of chargrilled eel. And following the traditions of kaiseki, which has its origins in tea ceremony, guests are treated to a sweet morsel, seasonal fruit and a delicious cup of matcha green tea.

INGREDIENTS
Ezo abalone, hair crab, wild sea bream from Funka Bay: Komatsu makes the most of an abundance of deliciously fresh ingredients sourced locally in Hokkaido. When it comes to kombu kelp – an essential in Japanese cuisine – Chef Komatsu has Rishiri, Rausu and Hidaka varieties, each dish determining which qualities of flavor he wishes to highlight. Many years of culinary endeavor in Hokkaido have afforded the chef deep insight into the origins of every item that comes into his kitchen. And while a Hokkaido-centric menu is always served to first-time guests and north island outsiders, the menu is adapted to delight locals alike with new experiences and flavors.

Chef Komatsu’s selection of sake includes around twelve bottles of the best items each season. The broad selection is a product of the fact that most customers express a preference for sake to enjoy with their meal. But wine lovers will also be delighted with Chef Komatsu’s choices for pairing beautifully with his delicious cuisine.

Nihonryori Komatsu cuisine #0
Nihonryori Komatsu cuisine #1

CHEF

Takashi Komatsu

Takashi Komatsu was born in Miyagi Prefecture in 1973. He moved to Hokkaido to study economics at university, but by the time of his graduation had determined to become a chef. His reason for choosing Japanese cuisine was simply because he is Japanese. It made sense to him. His training began at central Sapporo kaiseki restaurant Kaiko taking Komatsu through five positions over five years, instilling him with a well-rounded sense of traditional Japanese cuisine. He worked at several other restaurants and helped with new restaurant openings.

For the next ten years, Komatsu served as head chef at Elm Garden, an iconic establishment boasting more than 3,000 square meters of gorgeous traditional Japanese garden space, including Japanese-style buildings, a shaped hill, garden ponds, stepping stones and a detached tea house. His work saw him delighting guests in the restaurant, at banquets, and at wedding celebrations.

His shift to independence came with the milestone of turning 40. With a wish to carefully engage with his own cuisine, he opened a restaurant in his own name – Nihonryori Komatsu. For Chef Komatsu the key to everything in cuisine is balance. Flavor, presentation, and even personal relationships require balance. And when it comes to conceptualizing new dishes, Komatsu is not satisfied to recreate something he has read about in earlier writings; the recipe needs to be revitalized to make sense in the present.

Three times a year Komatsu treats himself to a trip to Tokyo to eat his way around the city enjoying all kinds of cuisines. He loves the stimulation and uses it as a chance to confirm his own place and philosophy in the culinary world.

VISION
Chef Komatsu talks about testing his skills in the overseas market, perhaps somewhere like Hong Kong. He recognizes the importance of pouring his energy into his own restaurant and other such developments, but has his sights equally set on nurturing his apprentices. In that sense, he believes the significance of having received a Michelin star for Nihonryori Komatsu should make the path for his younger chefs a little easier. And the sense of responsibility around that makes him more determined to hold on to that star.

He hopes that as he adds years to his life that it may bring about positive shifts in his cuisine. And despite his busy schedule, he takes time out to polish his English conversation skills to ensure he provides guests with a style of hospitality that matches his true intentions.

TABLEWARE

The very first piece of tableware that greets you as you take a seat at your table is a dish made entirely from Hokkaido clay, created by Hiroyuki Shimizu, a potter based at the climbing kiln of Toden-Gama in Shintotsukawa to the north of Sapporo. The warmth of this single piece was designed to express Chef Komatsu’s intentions. The exquisite items of Karatsu ware are the works of Sakurei Okamoto, whose philosophy of not merely recreating traditional Karatsu ware but revisiting it to create his own perspective perfectly complements Chef Komatsu’s culinary style. Of Komatsu’s whole tableware collection, about half the items were order-made after personal visits to kilns, and a third are antiques. His excellent aesthetic sense can be felt not only in his choice of tableware, but also in the way he so perfectly pairs his cuisine with the pieces. His hint on how best to do that? He says there are two choices: assimilation or juxtaposition.

Course

Lunch
Komatsu Lunch only course
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
¥14,000
¥14,000
Reservation Request
Lunch/ Dinner
Komatsu A course
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
¥16,500
¥16,500
Reservation Request
Lunch/ Dinner
Komatsu B course (More luxurious ingredients)
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
¥22,500
¥22,500
Reservation Request
Lunch/ Dinner
Komatsu C course (the most luxurious ingredients)
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥4,000
¥29,000
¥29,000
Reservation Request

Hokkaido

Nihonryori Komatsu

日本料理 こまつ

MICHELIN
1
STAR
PRICE
¥14,000
~
CHILD
12
& UP
VEGAN
WELCOME
LUNCH
OPEN
MIN GUESTS
1
PERSON
~
GENRE
Kaiseki, Maruyama
ADDRESS
B1F, 8 Chome-4-26 Maruyama Nishimachi, Chuo Ward, Sapporo, Hokkaido 064-0944, Japan
OPEN
Lunch:12PM-1:30PM (LO), Dinner: 6PM-8:30PM (LO)
CLOSED
Irregular
URL
NA
PHONE
+81 11-303-6495

RESERVATION

  • ×