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Delicious, approachable cuisine loosely inspired by washoku by a chef trained in the Osaka style of counter dining called Naniwa Kappo. Exposure to some of the world’s most exquisite wines encouraged Koketsu to develop a style incorporating many elements. The chic, cheerful atmosphere and superb collection of wines are just the beginning of the reasons for Koketsu’s popularity with Kitashinchi regulars.

Osaka‘s long-established entertainment district of Kitashinchi is home to exclusive clubs and bars packed with high-end restaurants. Koketsu can be found on the sixth floor of a building right next to the JR railway station, but it is not the kind of place you wander into. As you enter the dark interior, your eyes are immediately drawn to the wine cellars lining the walls and inside the counter. Designed more like a wine bar, you are clearly in the hands of a wine aficionado. The vantage point from which guests have a commanding view of the whole kitchen is a solid, single-plank counter. At more than six meters, it had to be hoisted into the building from the roadside.

Koketsu’s design features are intended to create a comfortable space for guests to relax and relish the exquisite food and wine. That is also the reason the restaurant only accepts guests introduced by others. Unsurprisingly, Koketsu is frequently booked out for entertaining and intimate dinners among friends. Guests can unwind at the roomy counter with front-row seats to enjoy the evening unfolding into an exciting mix of sounds, aromas and flavors.




Chef Koketsu’s cuisine is produce-driven: from humble vegetables to luxury ingredients, he maximizes their potential through a range of techniques. The very best vegetables come from specific producers, and he does as little as possible to them, letting their innate strength shine through. Steam, grill, deep-fry: The simplest, most fitting methods are used to prepare the ingredients, and then the only other task is to select the perfect condiments, seasonings, and sauces.

A seasonal degustation course of about eight dishes typically begins with a soup, perhaps a purée of fresh seasonal vegetables, followed by a small rice dish—sticky rice, sushi or okayu porridge—to match climate, temperature and available ingredients. Then, a lidded bowl dish, something grilled, sashimi, and something fried to round out a well-modulated start. Next are kishimen noodles, a belly and heartwarming dish, rice with a choice of eight side dishes, handmade soba, and dessert. He begins with powerful ingredients with strong flavor and impact, serving them as soon as possible after preparation. Towards the end of the meal, the chef shifts to more gentle flavors and textures. In a dish of chargrilled Akaza-ebi shrimp with sea urchin and Ariake seaweed, the velvety, rich shrimp innards and mellow sea urchin flavors perfectly match the plump shrimp. A steamed dumpling of crab meat and grouper flesh is served in a Wajima-nuri lacquerware bowl adorned with makie decorative inlay of cherry blossoms at night. It fills a bowl of dashi bursting with flavor that belies its simple, clear appearance. The chef adds Rishiri kombu to 60°C water and gently extracts flavor before adding bonito flakes. He strains the primary dashi, resulting in a wonderful, clean flavor.

Freshly caught shiro-amadai white tilefish is cooked skin-side down in oil with scales intact in a cooking method called matsukasa-yaki, designed to accentuate the delicious umami and crisp texture of the skin. The flesh is still slightly rare, plump and juicy. It is served with a sauce made from the sake lees of Fukui Prefecture favorite Kokuryu and the flowering wasabi plant for a true taste of spring.

In what can probably be described as his signature dish, to homemade kishimen noodles, Chef Koketsu adds bonito dashi, egg yolk sauce, Italian caviar, and chives. There is a jaw-dropping variety of side dishes to go with the freshly cooked clay pot rice. The Shimane Prefecture rice goes perfectly with a dish of thin slices of beef in a salty-sweet soy mixture called shigure-ni, or marinated tuna, bottarga, eel, curry, and the list goes on. It is almost impossible to say no to seconds. With the soba noodles, too, you can specify how much you would like to eat.

Chef Koketsu’s wine selections are as exquisite as his cuisine, so it is best to take full advantage of his sommelier qualifications and choose a pairing course to complete your evening.

Premium ingredients like Ehime white tilefish, Kobe beef, and Italian caviar are complemented by top products from around Japan, such as Hokkaido lily bulbs, Ibaraki lotus root, Yamashiro bamboo shoots, Mishima octopus, Ariake seaweed, and Rishiri Kombu. They span the archipelago and are all personally selected by Chef Koketsu, who believes part of a good chef’s talent is in ingredient choice. He constantly seeks new produce and makes changes to his cuisine to suit the freshest and best that comes through his doors. After all, his greatest joy is seeing guests delight in his cuisine. Pairing courses incorporating wine and sake are available, as are reasonably priced bottles for your enjoyment. Guests who want a taste or two just need to let the chef know, and he will share some options by the glass.

Koketsu cuisine #0
Koketsu cuisine #1


Yoshiki Koketsu

Yoshiki Koketsu is a Hiroshima native born in 1979. His first job as a student was at a sushi train restaurant, and then he became a fitness club instructor. But inside, his love for food and desire to use his hands prevailed, and he took up work at an Izakaya in Hiroshima until an incredible opportunity came along at the age of 25. He became acquainted with the owner of Shimanouchi Ichiyo, a fellow Hiroshima native who invited Koketsu to work for him in Osaka.

There, he learned bona fide Naniwa kappo cooking skills, thrilled over time to be able to break down fish and prepare daikon in the painstakingly difficult method called katsura-muki, among other cooking techniques. After cementing his career with a 10-year tenure at Shimanouchi Ichiyo, in 2014, Koketsu went independent with his eponymous restaurant. Having always been interested in and having dabbled in the study of wine, Koketsu was further encouraged by the many wine-loving guests in Kitashinchi and thus embarked on a journey to become a sommelier. He would visit wine bars after work to observe everything he could about aroma and flavor and earned his certification at age 31. Hoping to create a space for guests to admire the wine collection as they dined, he moved to a new location and reopened in February 2022.

From before he can remember, Chef Koketsu has always wanted to work and live a steady life somewhere with a temperate climate – not too cold and not too hot. He has his sights on Los Angeles, knowing it is warm year-round with comfortable, dry air.


As a wine lover himself, the chef has arranged a 1000-bottle collection of mainly French wines, including rare finds and famous winemakers. There’s no wine list; instead, guests can browse the selection, clearly marked with price tags to make the choices easier. Romanée Conti, Richebourg, and Dom Perignon P2 and P3 hard-to-find varieties.


6PM-, 8:30PM-
Koketsu Omakase course
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
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Kaiseki, Kitashinchi
6F, 1-10-2, Sonezakishinchi, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka
6PM-, 8:30PM-


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