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Hokkaido

Kowari

小割

Find your sanctuary at Kowari from within a maze of buildings in central Sapporo. Let this chef entertain you and your palate with precious local wine pairings and visually stunning dishes featuring produce from his hometown of Minami-Kayane in Hokkaido. The beautiful, borderless cuisine showcases the chef’s techniques from his background in Italian, French and Japanese cooking. The only challenge? Being one of the lucky five guests to dine at his counter.

A large table serves as a waiting space from which to take in the fresh flowers and natural wood interior designed by the chef so his guests can devour good food and truly relax. The counter seats offer the perfect view of the chef focused on his preparations, with his back to guests while working over the gas and charcoal stoves and facing guests for plating. But you cannot see everything his busy hands work on, elevating the surprise the moment a finished dish arrives. The tableware by local Hokkaido artisans sits atop a base Arita-yaki show plate, and the cutlery is an intriguing brand ZIKICO made from ceramic based on zirconia. The tiny restaurant is run entirely by Kowari, a certified sommelier and a talented chef.

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CUISINE

Find your sanctuary at Kowari

The chef wows guests with a wealth of ingredients produced predominantly in his native town of Minami-Kayabe near Hakodate and from Hokkaido’s entire rich natural landscape. The cuisine at Kowari is a chef’s tasting course of around ten dishes. It begins with four amuse bouche plates, followed by pasta, two exquisite Hokkaido seafood dishes, a meat dish, rice or pasta, and dessert. The details of each are dictated entirely by daily deliveries. Replete with originality and excellent flavor diversity, the dishes contain premium produce like fish, shellfish, crab, and abalone, which the chef has access to thanks to his Hokkaido roots. Dessert always comprises a mini sundae with seasonal flavors. On a recent day, that meant a piña colada-inspired concoction starting with coconut ice cream made from pure Hokkaido milk combined with pineapple.

Ayu sweetfish from Amanogawa is grilled over charcoal and served with cucumber and kombu flakes. Hokkigai Sakhalin surf clams from Hokuto City are heated just enough to release the incredible flavors. A pasta featuring seikogani snow crab from Funka Bay combines flesh from male crabs with an abundance of eggs from females and is topped with butterbur shoots sauce. Ravioli containing shiitake from Fukuda Farm in Nanae and sumptuous duck confit is topped with homemade ham and blue cheese sauce. Wild Ezo abalone from Hakodate is accompanied by morels and a Shaoxing wine sauce.

INGREDIENTS
Bountiful fish and shellfish come to Kowari from off the coast of Minami-Kayabe in Hokkaido. Even increasingly harder to obtain ingredients, like makombu giant kelp, come here from a fisherman friend of a childhood classmate. Ayu sweetfish are caught in the pristine waters of the Amanogawa River, which runs through Kaminokuni town in the Hiyama region, located on the Japan Sea side in Hokkaido‘s southwest. Organic vegetables and sumptuous pork are delivered directly from Onuma Akari Farm.

Kowari cuisine #0
Kowari cuisine #1

CHEF

Masaki Kowari

Masaki Kowari was born in 1977. He was naturally drawn to cooking, given his parents’ work and being raised in Hokkaido — a treasure trove of delectable ingredients. He began his training as a chef at a part-time job during university, then went on to train for six or seven years at restaurants of Italian and French cuisine. Kowari chose to go independent at age 30 with the Italian restaurant Desco in the current space but serving quite a few more guests daily. Just prior to that, he gained sommelier certification and became infatuated with natural wine after an encounter with Marcel Lapierre. Kowari renovated the space and re-opened it in August 2021, crowning the new restaurant with his own name.

VISION
Kowari’s vision is to fully showcase incredible and bountiful ingredients from his hometown and make this restaurant a truly unique space. He currently serves mostly local guests but wants to share the Kowari experience with overseas guests too. To that end, Kowari spends some of his private time studying English. His other hope for the future pertains to augmenting networks to promote better distribution of premium yet still unknown Hokkaido ingredients.

WINE

The wine selection features highly sought-after natural wines from Hokkaido, Italy, and France, all personally chosen by the chef. The lineup of elusive brands includes includes Norakura, Domaine Takahiko, 10R Winery, and Domaine Atsushi Suzuki. Chef Kowari recommends pairing courses for the perfect accompaniment to the dishes each day. He wants overseas guests to experience Hokkaido wines and, conversely, tends to introduce Italian and French wines to Japanese guests. Expectations rise as you sit at the counter, viewing the cellar full of wines and wondering what the chef will choose for you.

Course

Lunch
Kowari lunch only course
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
¥18,000
¥18,000
Reservation Request
Lunch
Kowari lunch only more luxurious course
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
¥23,000
¥23,000
Reservation Request
Dinner
Kiwano dinner course
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
  • The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
¥25,500
¥25,500
Reservation Request

Hokkaido

Kowari

小割

PRICE
¥18,000
~
CHILD
10
& UP
LUNCH
OPEN
MIN GUESTS
2
PEOPLE
~
GENRE
Innovative, Sapporo
ADDRESS
2F, 〒064-0804 Hokkaido, Sapporo, Chuo Ward, Minami 4 Jonishi, 6 Chome−8−3
OPEN
Lunch: 12PM-, Dinner: 6PM- 8PM (Last entry)
CLOSED
Sunday
URL
NA
PHONE
NA

RESERVATION

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