Tokyo
Sushi Hiroo Ishizaka
広尾 石阪
Warmth emanates from this space that feels special and private, hidden away in the streets of Hiroo. It is elegant yet does not have a skerrick of intimidation you sometimes find in fine dining. Savor the warm and effortless hospitality of the husband-and-wife team as you devour unique and delicious expressions of sushi by Chef Ishizaka.
Hiroo Ishizaka popped up in a neighborhood filled with great eateries in July 2022. The chef’s calligraphy at the street level leads you to a stylish building with two staircases leading to the second floor. Guests are asked to use the one deeper in the building. This is a helpful hint because nothing at the restaurant’s actual entrance indicates its name. But if you are standing before a splendid cedar door, you have arrived at Hiroo Ishizaka. Using Kamiyosugi cedar from Akita Prefecture’s majestic Mt. Chokai, the door opens to charming Joseon Dynasty Korean antique furniture featuring turtles.
Moving further in, you will discover a counter with just eight seats designed to feel like a family dining table – a layout that helps guests feel comfortable and breathe it all in. The walnut timber counter was chosen to pair with the chef’s favorite walnut chairs by Italian Ceccotti Collezioni. They exude a sense of peace and comfort throughout the restaurant with its wicker ceiling and shikkui traditional plaster walls.
A single papercut artwork by Shu Kubo, which shows the god Ebisu and a sea bream, was chosen by the couple who went in search of artwork associated with sushi. The only other adornments are a single Japanese flower arrangement in a small vase on the wall behind the chef and the round plates on which the nigiri sushi is served. They are pieces by Kyo Isesaki, an artist of Bizen Ware, the traditional pottery of Okayama Prefecture.
CUISINE
Special and private, hidden away
Opening the chef’s omakase tasting course are appetizers demonstrating the chef’s incredible skills and unique sensibility. Appetizers, usually numbering about seven, include a seasonal dish, two types of sashimi, and a heated dish like octopus or abalone. Akashi octopus is prepared and served to time with the guest’s arrival in an incredibly simple boiled preparation of just salt and water because Ishizaka wants guests to experience the authentic flavor. Steamed abalone is a summer signature featuring abalone from Chiba’s Boso Peninsula steamed with sake, salt and kombu.
When the nigiri component begins, Ishizaka firmly grasps the rice to shape it, topping it with delectable seafood ready to be devoured immediately and served at a steady, enjoyable pace. After all, sushi has its roots in fast food stalls on the old streets of Edo. Guests are always greeted first with the buttery goodness of chutoro medium-fatty tuna. Ishizaka prefers maguro bluefin tuna with softer flesh, perhaps one caught at Toi on the southern tip of Hokkaido. He removes the sinew to reveal a delicious portion of flesh called hagashimi. A perennial favorite, it is simple and always tasty. This may be followed by kohada gizzard shad, squid, akami lean tuna, seasonal shellfish, and hikarimono silver-skinned fish.
The chef then serves a generous helping of Saga Prefecture sea urchin so guests can experience the best the luscious ingredient has to offer. It is served as either nigiri or gunkan, surrounded by roasted seaweed, so named for its resemblance to a submarine. The plump, resilient flesh of botan-ebi shrimp follows. Then comes anago conger eel cooked to perfection and brushed with an exquisite savory-sweet sauce, which is the product of reducing the cooking liquid from over a year of preparing the saltwater eel. The chef’s tamago egg is the final piece in the course. It is rich in dashi flavor and served by itself or as nigiri depending on the guest’s appetite.
At some point amid the nigiri, Chef Ishizaka presents guests with a curious-looking morsel. It is his signature of Niigata Prefecture shiitake cooked with salt and sake. Combined with a rice oval and wrapped in an oba green shiso leaf and roasted seaweed – it is a masterpiece that brings great comfort.
INGREDIENTS
The seafood served at Ishizaka is mostly supplied by Toyosu Market. Kyushu’s Yanagihashi Rengo Ichiba market is the source of Saga Prefecture sea urchin and other delicacies from the southern Japanese seas. When it comes to bluefin tuna, Ishizaka prefers softer flesh types, and because he is committed to using only domestic fish, he will use frozen stocks when fresh is not available. His signature nigiri of a shiitake features the thick, umami-rich mushrooms grown in Yairo, Niigata Prefecture.
Ishizaka’s rice is the Koshihikari varietal from Aizu in Fukushima Prefecture. For the vinegar, to a base of Iio Jozo rice vinegar brewed in Kyoto, he blends Mitsukan’s Yamabuki – a throwback to his training days and a signal that he always wants to stay faithful to his roots. Wasabi is delivered directly to the restaurant from a farmer in Izu, Shizuoka, and Ishizaka uses seaweed from the Ariake Sea. This rich wetlands environment experiences the largest tidal differences in all of Japan.
CHEF
Kenji Ishizaka
ALCOHOLIC DRINKS
The chef personally selects the wine and sake for guests to enjoy. Champagnes and Burgundy Chardonnays dominate the wine lineup. His penchant for lactic acid in sake drives the choice of Mimurosugi from Nara Prefecture’s Imanishi Shuzo. The brewery is based in Miwa, Nara, the home of the god of sake. This variety has been brewed for over 300 years and takes on a different character each year as the method adopts wild fermentation in kioke wooden barrels. Another label in the diverse lineup is Ubusuna, made by Kumamoto’s Hananoka Shuzo. The title means “one’s native land” and acknowledges a spiritual relationship with the land that brings the sake to life.
Ishizaka has a personal fascination with the sake-making process, and his visits to sake breweries around the country allow him to gather a sense of the places and information first-hand, which he then passes on to guests through thoughtful explanations.
Course
- The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000
- The price includes our booking fee of ¥8,000