Kyoto

Torinokoji Yamagishi

とりの小路山岸

Nestled in the historic quarter of Shijo Karasuma, Torinokoji Yamagishi offers an intimate yakitori omakase that reflects the culinary philosophy of its award-winning parent, Tominokoji Yamagishi. Specializing in premium Kuro Satsuma chicken and seasonal Kyoto vegetables, the restaurant presents the elegance of Japanese traditions through the art of grilling. Be sure to book a counter seat during the Gion Festival to enjoy the rare front-row view of passing floats while savoring their scrumptious skewers.

Opened in February 2025, Torinokoji Yamagishi is located in a building overlooking bustling Shijo Street in central Kyoto. Inside, the space opens to a curved eight-seat counter that hugs around the binchotan charcoal grill. Every seat offers a clear view of the chef’s precise movements at the grill, and conversation is encouraged. “We want it to be a relaxing place,” says the head chef, Yusuke Maeda. “Please feel free to talk with us.”

Though a newcomer, Torinokoji Yamagishi has already attracted attention for its exceptional ingredients, sourced through the exclusive channels of Tominokoji Yamagishi, the renowned cha-kaiseki restaurant founded by Takahiro Yamagishi. The highlight of the menu here is Kokuou chicken, a premium black-feathered Kuro Satsuma breed—one of Japan’s top three jidori varieties. Renowned for its rich flavor and supple texture, this chicken rewards slow chewing with layers of umami.

Complementing the charcoal-grilled skewers is a thoughtful selection of Kyoto-style side dishes. Two obanzai courses and a seasonal salad are served as part of the course, highlighting the region’s vegetable traditions. The dashi, a key element in Kyoto cuisine, is made using a refined technique where the niban dashi, or second brew, is enriched with bonito flakes for greater depth.

the culinary philosophy of Tominokoji Yamagishi.

Torinokoji Yamagishi’s omakase menu centers around a series of charcoal-grilled yakitori, complemented by obanzai dishes that highlight Kyoto’s seasonal flavors. The meal offers eight to nine skewers of grilled chicken, two styles of obanzai, a salad of local vegetables and a warm bowl of ramen.

Grilled over high-grade Tosa Binchotan charcoal, the yakitori here achieves an exquisite balance of smoke, texture and umami. Skewers often include prime cuts such as Kokuou thigh—rich and fatty with the skin removed to focus on the meat’s flavor—and rare selections like gizzard fin, sourced through exclusive suppliers. Other highlights include salted chicken fillet and juicy sot-l'y-laisse or oysters, a tender muscle near the thigh. While salt is the primary seasoning, a tasty tare sauce, made from simmered soy sauce, sake, mirin and chicken bone broth, adds a savory layer.

The varieties of obanzai—Kyoto’s home-style side dishes—rotate with the seasons. Simmered Manganji peppers are tossed in a delicate Tosa-ni broth, and served with crunchy lotus root kinpira. The salad uses a mix of fresh vegetables such as paprika, watercress, broccoli and cauliflower, dressed simply with soy sauce and olive oil. A palate-cleansing daikon dish is marinated in sweet vinegar and freshly grated radish.

The bowl of ramen offers a satisfying finish to the meal. The broth, made from the same chicken bones that flavor the yakitori, is clean yet rich. For those with a heartier appetite, a comforting bowl of oyakodon—chicken and egg over rice—is also available.

INGREDIENTS
Torinokoji Yamagishi prides itself on sourcing seasonal ingredients from the same suppliers as its parent restaurant, Tominokoji Yamagishi. This ensures access to high-quality, often rare, ingredients. The Kokuou chicken is procured whole several times a week for freshness. Vegetables are selected based on seasonality, with an emphasis on freshness and local sourcing. The restaurant also boasts an extensive drink menu, featuring a curated selection of 15 types of sake and wines, chosen to complement the flavors of the cuisine.

CHEF

Yusuke Maeda

Yusuke Maeda was born in Hiroshima Prefecture. His culinary journey began during his university years in Osaka, where he worked part-time at a family-run udon restaurant. After honing his skills at Japanese restaurants in Kyoto's Pontocho and Kiyamachi districts, Maeda joined Tominokoji Yamagishi. He played a pivotal role in the opening of Nominokoji Yamagishi in 2022, returning to Kyoto after gaining experience at the Ginza location. For Maeda, working with rare ingredients, antique ceramic and a discerning clientele has not only sharpened his skills but also deepened his appreciation to Japanese hospitality and traditions.

VISION
Maeda envisions Torinokoji Yamagishi as a refined restaurant where guests can enjoy high-quality yakitori in a relaxed setting. He aims to create an atmosphere that fosters interaction between chefs and guests, making fine dining accessible to a broader audience. The restaurant's location also offers a unique advantage to experience Kyoto's vibrant cityscape and a rare front-row view of the Gion Festival in the summer.

KOKUOU CHICKEN

The chef pays great attention to the ingredients he sources, and how he prepares them for the best yakitori experience. Fresh Kokuou chicken is procured whole and multiple times a week and set aside for a few days to rest, allowing the flavor to deepen. The meticulous preparation process ensures that each skewer delivers a rich, savory taste. The chicken has a firm texture and lower moisture content, which allow it to cook beautifully over high heat, he explains. The meat is also fattier than most other breeds, making it tender and flavorful.