Kyoto

Nikusho Shion

肉匠　しおん

An intimate Kyoto-style wagyu experience unfolds at this discreet six-seat counter. With no signage and no walk-ins, Nikusho Shion operates by introduction only—an exclusive setting where Chef Shion Yamagishi explores the intersection of premium wagyu and kaiseki techniques. As the second-generation owner of Yakiniku Yamachan and a protégé of the renowned Tominokoji Yamagishi, Yamagishi brings together two culinary traditions to craft a seasonal omakase centered around beef and delicate Japanese flavors.

Hidden away in a building near the bustling Shijo-Karasuma crossing, Nikusho Shion is not your typical yakiniku destination. Launched in May 2024, the restaurant offers some of Japan’s finest beef, its rich flavors augmented by sophisticated techniques and exquisite presentation. The restaurant’s minimalist interior is outfitted in black with just six counter seats, creating an intimate setting that sets the focus on the cuisine. From every seat, guests have a direct view of the open charcoal grill and the chef at work.

Named after himself, Yamagishi personally oversees every element of the culinary process—from sourcing and butchering the meat to grilling each dish in front of his guests. To offer a personalized experience for every guest, the restaurant operates by introduction only, including reservations through TABLEALL.

The intersection of premium wagyu and kaiseki techniques

Rooted in a family of chefs, Yamagishi draws from both the yakiniku expertise of his father and the kaiseki traditions of his uncle’s Tominokoji Yamagishi. His 10–12 course omakase evolves monthly, shaped by the season, the weather, and each guest’s preferences. The menu highlights the finest cuts of Japanese wagyu and fresh, locally sourced vegetables.

Beef is selected from the highest-grade wagyu available each season. Alongside popular cuts such as loin, thigh, and skirt steak, the menu often includes rarer selections like tongue, misuji, sagari and marushin. Each cut is treated with precision: shabu-shabu slices are trimmed of excess fat, while grilled meats are adjusted in thickness to maximize flavor and texture.

On colder days, the meal begins with a warm bowl of rice porridge, gently simmered in mineral-rich groundwater from Tominokoji Yamagishi and topped with seasonal ingredients such as butterbur sprouts. A spring vegetable namul features kogomi fern and bracken in dashi, paired with simply seasoned carrots dressed in sesame oil, salt, and pepper.

The day’s wagyu sashimi, a restaurant signature, is hiuchi tartare, one of the most marbled parts of wagyu that is full of umami. The tender meat is finely pounded and mixed with a sauce made from banana, apple, soy sauce and kombu. The surprising combination of flavors brings out the beef’s umami. The shabu shabu features fresh thigh meat, served so rare it could be eaten raw. Each slice is dipped into a broth of kombu, bonito flakes and soy sauce, then plated with crisp celery for contrast.

The yakiniku platter showcases a selection of delicious cuts, served with a flavorful sauce made with groundwater, kombu, beef bone stock and soy sauce. The pieces are grilled over Tosa binchotan charcoal to warm the center without losing the meat’s texture. Cuts such as hiuchi (thighs) and sagari (hanger) offer contrast in flavor and texture. Each guest receives about ten slices, though additional servings are available upon request.

INGREDIENTS
“This is a menu designed to enjoy wagyu in all its dimensions,” says Yamagishi. The restaurant sources only premium wagyu, acquired from top wholesalers at the Kobe market. Once the meat is perfectly matured to its optimal condition, it is hand-cut by Yamagishi to the nearest tenth of a millimeter. This precision ensures each preparation brings out the best qualities of the cut.

Also a certified sommelier, Yamagishi curates a beautiful pairing menu to complement the cuisine. In addition to wines, he offers an impressive selection of Japanese whiskies, shochu and beer. He usually has about 10 wine recommendations, and guests are invited to explore combinations that they may enjoy.

CHEF

Shion Yamagishi

Born in Kyoto in 2000, Shion Yamagishi grew up surrounded by incredible food, tasting dishes at his family’s restaurants from an early age. While studying science at university, he began working nights at his father’s Yakiniku Yamachan—then a side job that soon revealed a deeper fascination with wagyu’s complexity. What began as part-time work quickly evolved into a lifelong pursuit. “I just wanted as many people as possible to enjoy wagyu,” he says.

Today, as the owner of both Yakiniku Yamachan and Nikusho Shion, Yamagishi continues to refine his skills. “Every morning, I start the day at Tominokoji Yamagishi, helping with ingredient preparation,” he explains. “It’s where I deepen my understanding of seasonal vegetables and traditional techniques like dashi-making.”

VISION
Yamagishi has dreamed of opening a restaurant where he could engage directly with guests and tailor each meal to individual preferences. The introduction-only format allows for exactly that—an experience shaped not only by fine ingredients but by thoughtful conversation and hospitality.

While wagyu remains the cornerstone of his cuisine, he embraces an evolving approach. He incorporates seasonal techniques, new influences, and contemporary sensibilities, unbound by rigid genre.

TABLEWARE

The artistry of Nikusho Shion extends beyond its cuisine. The tableware is drawn from the private collection of Takahiro Yamagishi, Yamagishi’s uncle and the owner of award-winning Tominokoji Yamagishi. Every piece is rare and unique, including Edo-period Shino ware, gosu-akae plate and antique ceramics from the Azuchi-Momoyama to Meiji periods. Fresh seasonal flowers are placed along the counter, offering a subtle but elegant gesture of hospitality to each guest.