Tokyo

Sanosushi

Name: Sanosushi
Address: 2 Chome-18-9 Shiba, Minato City, Tokyo 105-0014, Japan, Hamamatsucho, Tokyo
Telephone: NA
Price range: ¥36,500

佐野鮨

Sanosushi presents Edomae sushi in its most authentic form. Reviving the classic style, award-winning chef Tadashi Sano shapes each piece of nigiri using thicker slices of fish and well-seasoned rice. The trio of tuna is outstanding, while signature dishes like miso-marinated ikura leave a lasting impression. While recognized as one of the top Tokyo fine-dining spots, it remains a family-run counter where the chef and his wife welcome guests with warmth and a sense of heritage.

Following a successful tenure as head chef of Tsukiji Aozora Sandaime Marunouchi, Sano opened Sanosushi with a vision. He wanted his restaurant to feel like a traditional machi-zushi, a local sushi bar that is rooted in the community. He found an old Japanese house in a quiet residential neighborhood and oversaw the entire renovation himself, combining the character of a local shop with the polish of fine dining.

Inside, the counter is hewn from a single plank of cherry wood, chosen by the chef for the gentle curves of its grain. Guests watch as he places the pieces of sushi directly on the counter, a traditional Edomae practice. The floor is finished with natural stone while the plaster walls add a soft texture. The ceiling is deliberately lower than most modern buildings, mimicking the atmosphere of a traditional home.

Bringing back the style of an earlier era.

The seasonal omakase at Sanosushi begins with a series of small appetizers, followed by a dozen pieces of nigiri. The sushi here is chunkier than most modern establishments, bringing back the style of an earlier era. Abalone from Chiba Prefecture is steamed in sake for as long as six hours until tender. The rich liver is strained and cooked in a sweet soy sauce, then mixed with chopped abalone fringes to bring together different textures. The cross section is cut with a wave-like pattern, showing the precision of Sano’s knife work.

The appetizers reveal Sano’s curious nature as he experiments with new flavors. Instead of traditional nori soy sauce, he’s come up with his own recipe of nori butter, an unusual combination of the briny seaweed with Échiré butter. This delicious sauce is used to flavor dishes such as oyster chawanmushi or served as condiments for grilled fish.

The first piece of nigiri is a clean cut of red sea bream, prepared and seasoned using classic Edomae-style technique. Then comes the tuna, the heart of any sushi course. Sourced from Fujita Suisan, one of the top Tokyo wholesalers, Sano serves three different cuts: lean akami, chutoro and otoro—specifically in that order so each flavor prepares the palate for the next.

Shinko, or young gizzard shad, from Kumamoto Prefecture is first cured in salt water and then in rice vinegar. Fresh hiragai from Aichi Prefecture is finely scored on the surface before gently pressed on the rice with a sheet of nori.

The signature salmon roe follows. Offered only in the fall from September to December, the roe is marinated in miso, creating this sticky, rich texture that is almost like cheese. For the perfect saltiness, Sano adjusts the marinating time depending on the time of the season as the thickness of the roe’s skin changes over time.

Conger eel is another of the chef’s specialties that reveals his thoughtful approach. He uses halves of two eels, which allows the fatty belly of one filet to align by the more flavorful tail of the other. Slowly simmered, the finishing glaze is rich and deep in flavor, almost like chocolate.

The final course is tamagoyaki, traditional egg omelette. His recipe uses yamato yam, which adds tenderness and moisture. At lunchtime, it’s served as a nigiri-style sandwich filled with shiba shrimp oboro paste.

INGREDIENTS
Sano’s relationship with Fujita Suisan began during his tenure at Tsukiji Aozora Sandaime Marunouchi, where he received high appraisals for his work. Since opening Sanosushi, the Toyosu vendor has continued to supply top-grade tuna cuts, including harakami, the part of the belly that is closest to the head that is prized as much as otoro and chutoro. Their tuna is tender, aromatic and balanced with a pleasing acidity. The restaurant also works directly with fishermen outside Toyosu. Red sea urchin, tilefish and whiting come from Ehime, while salmon roe, monkfish liver, botan shrimp and scallops are sourced in Hokkaido.

The rice is a blend of Koshihikari and Kinuhikari from Shiga Prefecture, chosen for both flavor and texture. Wasabi comes from growers in Shizuoka with only the finest seasonal varieties delivered directly to the restaurant.

A dish from the cuisine at Sanosushi: Bringing back the style of an earlier era. #2

CHEF

Tadashi Sano

Tadashi Sano was born in Chiba Prefecture in 1986. Becoming a sushi chef was never a part of his original plan. At 17, he began working in interior design, a field far removed from the kitchen. When he was 23 years old, he joined a local izakaya in Tokyo, where he discovered the joy of cooking. Six years later, he committed himself by starting his apprenticeship at Tsukiji Aozora Sandaime. At Tsukiji Aozora Sandaime, he spent the first two years at the main store before taking on the role as head chef at the Marunouchi branch. Having started later than most of his peers, he made up for the lost time by practicing filleting and roll making at home after long shifts. He says he’s grateful for those years as they gave him the confidence to handle a wide range of fish and the determination to open his own sushi bar. That dream came true just eight years later. Drawing on his earlier career in design, Sano planned the interior of Sanosushi himself. He thought about every detail including the exact height of the chairs and how it fits against the counter. His wife, Yumiko, stepped into the role of proprietress, while also continuing to look after their three children. “My oldest son wants to be a soccer player but he says he will open a sushi restaurant once he retires,” she says with a smile.

VISION
“For me, this is the culmination,” Sano says with conviction. His goal is simple: to offer the best food he can, every day without compromise. That principle shapes his philosophy and practice of Sanosushi.

SUSHI RICE

At Sanosushi, the rice is prepared with as much care as the fish it accompanies. Sano blends Koshihikari and Kinuhikari grains, sourced from small-scale producers in Shiga Prefecture. The rice is soaked for an hour then cooked quickly with minimal water to keep the inside moist while creating a crisp texture on the outside.

The maker of the vinegar, used to season the rice, is kept a secret. He says he still remembers the first time he tasted their aged vinegar and how it had a rich fruity aroma. For the perfect acidity, he creates a blend of three different types of vinegars. He doesn’t use any sugar in the seasoning but instead relies on Hiroshima seaweed salt for a deeper flavor. The rice gives off a comfortable amount of sourness that helps bring out the umami of the fish, leaving guests with a flavor they instinctively want to revisit.