Unbound by traditions, the highly creative course of nine or ten dishes at Middle takes different forms depending on the season or the guest’s hunger level. It does not need to flow from appetizer to soup and eventually main dish; if the guest arrives very hungry, perhaps a meat dish will make an early appearance. While his background may be steeped in French techniques, the only rules Fujio follows are that the course is deeply satisfying and tummy-filling and that it be composed of the “Three Fives of Japanese cuisine”: five flavors, five colors, and five methods.

Some of the chef’s mouthwatering winter creations include homemade egg yolk ravioli enveloping snow crab in a broth rich in the aroma of prosciutto, and chargrilled Japanese Spanish mackerel from Ise, Mie, served with persimmon pickled in white wine vinegar, fresh chrysanthemum greens, and bright yellow chrysanthemum flowers. Colvert duck breast is topped with a mixture of duck thigh and innards and roasted together, served with celeriac puree and a flavorful jus extracted from duck bones. From late November to February, Chef Fujio also roasts blocks of badger meat, whose fat is tastiest in winter, served with seri dropwort and a sauce of badger bone broth seasoned with salt, sake, and aromatics. The meal ends in traditional French style with cheese and dessert.

INGREDIENTS
The sole condition for ingredients is that they taste amazing. Seeing no need to limit the regions they come from, Fujio seeks delicious ingredients from near and far. But it is unsurprising that many hail from Kyoto and the Kansai region: Kyoto vegetables from the fertile soils of Kamigamo, Tanba chestnuts, and Nara persimmons. As freshness is paramount, it is essential that ingredients – be they seafood, meat, or vegetables – arrive in the kitchens as soon as possible after picking or hunting. Fujio had started sourcing duck and other gibier from France but soon realized there was a wealth of high-quality gibier right on his doorstep. Close relationships with producers and intermediaries ensure Fujio has the most detailed information on the best seasonal produce each moment.