Tokyo

Ginza Kitagawa

Name: Ginza Kitagawa
Address: 2-10-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Ginza, Tokyo
Telephone: NA
Price range: ¥44,500

銀座　きた川

Founded as an extension of award-winning Ginza Shinohara, Ginza Kitagawa is a place where young talents refine with their craft. Under the guidance of Chef Kazuyuki Kitagawa, the team here explores a new approach to kappo cuisine, where traditions meet fresh ideas. Their signature oil-based dishes use techniques rarely seen in kaiseki. The menu unfolds in real time before guests, each dish a celebration of seasons and enjoyment.

Since opening in September 2022, Ginza Kitagawa has quietly earned its place in Ginza’s elite culinary circle, located just steps from its parent restaurant. The restaurant’s sign, rendered by founder Takemasa Shinohara’s calligraphy teacher, hints at its connection to tradition, while the striking floral arrangements, composed by Kitagawa himself, offer a glimpse into his personal aesthetic.

The dining area centers around a white cypress counter, seating just ten guests. Behind it is the frying station where the chefs prepare their signature oil-based courses such as deep-fried tilefish and kakiage rice. Beverage pairings are also curated with intention. Wine and sake are chosen for their affinity with the cuisine, with a particular emphasis on freshness and fragrance.

Traditions meet fresh ideas

The seasonal kappo menu draws from the disciplined techniques of Ginza Shinohara while weaving in elements from tempura, sushi, and even French cuisine—skills Kitagawa developed at some of Japan’s most respected restaurants. The omakase, which changes every two months, is composed of a thoughtful sequence of sashimi, seasonal appetizers, soup, fried dish, a special plate and two main courses.

Presentation remains a focal point for Kitagawa, with each course reflecting the current season. In summer, the cool shades of maple and bamboo adorn the plates; in autumn, golden ginkgo and crimson leaves set the tone. The result is a table that echoes the landscape outside.

The hassun plate offers a mosaic of seasonal small bites. Zha cai and flat clams are mixed with Moroccan green beans in a mustard-vinegar miso dressing. Sweet simmered beans, rice octopus with egg and sweet potato, red konjac and sea bream sushi add variety. Smoked ark shell is tossed with vinegared cucumber and cod sprouts in sesame paste.

The signature amadai matsukasa age, or deep-fried tilefish, is shaped to resemble a pine cone. The crisp exterior gives way to a moist interior, paired simply with a snap pea sauce that enhances rather than distracts. A consomme jelly is layered with sea urchin, tiger prawns, taro, yuba, and green beans, balanced by the acidity of Tosa vinegar. Meat also plays a significant role in the main grill courses, drawing upon techniques Kitagawa mastered at Ginza Oishi. Premium cuts such as Hida beef are grilled over tamahagane steel.

The final rice dish features seasonal ingredients. The day’s flavor is firefly squid and asparagus, where the ingredients are flash-fried and folded into rice cooked in a clay pot, along with tempura flakes for added texture. Asparagus tips are gently parboiled, while stems are transformed into crisp tempura.

INGREDIENTS
Ginza Kitagawa shares much of its ingredients with Ginza Shinohara, underscoring a deep connection to quality. Tuna is supplied by a renowned wholesaler, Fujita Suisan, while many of the fish arrive from the Kansai region, particularly Awaji. Vegetables are sourced daily from Toyosu Market, complemented by seasonal produce from farmers in Hida Takayama.

The rice is Kinuhikari from Shiga Prefecture. The newly harvested rice is reserved for Tenbara, a tempura-infused rice dish, while aged grains are used in sushi to better balance the vinegar and texture.

A dish from the cuisine at Ginza Kitagawa: Traditions meet fresh ideas #2

CHEF

Kazuyuki Kitagawa

Born in Hyogo Prefecture in 1984, Kazuyuki Kitagawa developed an early appreciation for food, deciding in junior high school to pursue a culinary path. After formal training, he apprenticed under his mentor across three esteemed inns in the onsen towns of Arima, Kinosaki and Gero, and later refined his technique in resort kitchens throughout Wakayama and Okayama.

He assumed the role of head chef at a resort in Shiga Prefecture for three years before opening his own restaurant, Japanese Cuisine Kitagawa, in 2016, located on the former site of Shinohara. For three and a half years, he built a loyal following. At 35, he moved to Tokyo and joined Ginza Shinohara to continue his training.

In preparation for the launch of Ginza Kitagawa, he undertook rigorous training at Naruse, a famed tempura restaurant in Shizuoka, and also learned at Sushi Namba and Sushi Ryujiro. He also spent time at the French restaurant Ginza Oishi, expanding his approach beyond traditional Japanese cuisine. These experiences inform his distinctive approach to blending Japanese precision with innovative creativity.

VISION
Looking ahead, Kitagawa aspires to return to his hometown of Kobe to open a restaurant of his own—an eventual homecoming that would bring his journey full circle. In the meantime, he remains committed to raising the next generation of chefs here at Ginza Kitagawa.

THE ART OF FRYING

A defining feature of Ginza Kitagawa is its approach to oil-based cooking. The frying is done using solid pots that were crafted in Osaka by skilled artisans. These pots, while weighty and durable, require attentive maintenance to prevent rust.

The frying oil is a proprietary blend of Taihaku and Taiko sesame oils, mirroring the same formula as the tempura restaurant, Naruse, where Kitagawa trained. The result is a cooking medium that is both fragrant and clean, enhancing texture while preserving the flavor of each ingredient—an understated technique that lies at the heart of Kitagawa’s culinary philosophy.