“Rather than delivering instant flavor, I aim to create tastes that gently evolve and unfold with every bite,” says Takahashi. His shari (vinegared rice) is deliberately mild in both salt and acidity, seasoned with a blend of four vinegars, including three varieties of red vinegar.

A typical course comprises five tsumami (small appetizers) and as many as 13 to 14 pieces of nigiri. Among the appetizers is horsehair crab, dressed in sesame vinegar, accompanied by ginkgo nuts and figs. A sesame cream made with reduced sake creates the base of the dish, while a touch of Hebesu citrus adds a refreshing accent. Hamo-otoshi, blanched pike conger with pickled plum, is served from late September through November, when the fish is at its peak.

The soup changes monthly and is served early in the meal. Instead of using bonito flakes, Takahashi draws out the natural umami of ingredients such as kombu, white tilefish and maitake mushrooms, creating a broth that requires no additional salt.

The bite-sized blackthroat seaperch bowl is a signature dish offered from July to November. Despite its generous portion, the fish is moist and delicate, giving it a surprisingly light finish. Served from around December to June, the monkfish liver hand roll pairs the richness of the liver with fried vinegared rice, creating an intriguing contrast of textures.

Takahashi frequently reminds guests to chew their sushi thoroughly, believing that its true character emerges gradually rather than in the first instant. The signature karasumi nigiri perhaps best illustrates his philosophy. He selects cured mullet roe with a naturally high oil content, preserving its moist texture even after drying. Steamed together with the rice, the mullet roe takes on a glossy surface and a supple texture, its flavor growing richer with each chew until it develops a cheese-like depth.

The gizzard shad offers another example of Takahashi's attention to moisture. Prepared to retain its natural moisture, the fish has a freshness more commonly associated with a light vinegar rinse than the firmer texture of traditionally cured kohada. The baby cuttlefish, sourced from the same Akashiura fishmonger as the pike conger, has a delicate flavor and is so small that each cuttlefish yields just one piece of nigiri.

Sourced from Toyosu Market, the tuna is lightly salted after slicing and left to rest for 15 minutes before being shaped into nigiri, allowing the seasoning to integrate with the flesh without overwhelming its flavor. A cut between chutoro and otoro offers a delicate balance of richness and texture, while the otoro is finished with a touch of black pepper. For other nigiri, Takahashi often replaces the customary nikiri (seasoned soy sauce) with a light brushing of a 1.5 percent saline solution to make sure the flavor of the fish stays the central focus.

The meal concludes with a futomaki roll filled with egg, dried koya-tofu, eel, dried gourd strips, shiitake mushrooms and Japanese parsley. Before dessert, guests are served tamagoyaki, a slice of Japanese omelet. It is made with minimal sweetness and an airy texture that is reminiscent of castella sponge cake.

INGREDIENTS
Takahashi sources seafood from across Japan, selecting each catch according to the season and the region where it is at its best. He places particular trust in individual fishmongers whose expertise allows him to obtain seafood in precisely the condition he seeks. For pike conger and squid, he works with fishmongers including Masanori Tsurutani of Tsuruichi in Akashiura, Hyogo Prefecture and Yamazaki Sengyo in Kagoshima. Other trusted suppliers include Hondaya in Amakusa, Kumamoto Prefecture and Omori in Miyagi Prefecture. These suppliers employ specialized handling techniques designed to preserve the quality of the fish. Fish are also kept in seawater for a carefully controlled period as part of the handling process, allowing impurities to be expelled and minimizing stress that could affect the texture of the flesh. Tuna is sourced from Daizen at Tokyo’s Toyosu Market.

The shari is made with the original Hatsushimo rice variety from Gifu Prefecture, seasoned with vinegar from Kisaichi Brewing in Chiba and salt from Amakusa. Seasonal vegetables feature prominently in the tsumami, many sourced directly from growers. Bamboo shoots arrive from Kyoto, while turnips and bell peppers come from Higashi Farm in HIda-Takayama in Gifu Prefecture. The soy sauce is made by Kajita Shoten in Ehime Prefecture, a producer known for its naturally-brewed soy sauce.