For the first time guest, Chef Ito recommends the omakase (prefix) course. We are accustomed to specifying exactly what we want to eat and how, but you will not be disappointed if you put yourself into Chef Ito’s hands. Depending on the season, you might enjoy plump juicy eggplant in a dashi soup garnished with fresh summer greens and myoga, crispy-skinned grilled fish with a tasty knob of miso, tummy-warming clay pot hot pots and of course, fugu in all its forms. Fugu karaage, fugu sashimi, fugu shabushabu.

You can see Ito’s love for fugu (puffer fish) when he explains the unique flavors in the different layers and colors of skin versus the flesh and the gelatinous layer in between. He explains that fugu is a fish whose flavor does not overwhelm because the umami is in the protein of the fish, not in fat as with other fish like tuna. The more you chew, the more flavor emerges, and you can experiment with combinations of the condiments of tiny specialty green onions called fugunegi and daidai bitter orange ponzu dipping sauce.

Enjoy these flavors with Japanese sake from the Tokuyama’s large selection. Standard favorites and seasonal specialties, served by the glass to match the food and the customer. He suggests trying two varieties at once, tasting the different qualities and noting how they pair with the dishes.

The beauty of washoku is in enjoyment of the passing seasons through the ingredients available. And Japan’s natural environment offers up so many incredible ingredients. You may want to time your visit with the season for hana-zansho (Japanese pepper). At Tokuyama, the season is brief because Ito will only use hana-zansho that passes his very strict test. This also goes for ayu (summer), matsutake (autumn), and shirako (milt), the soft fugu roe available in the cold winter months. Using only charcoal, gas fire or steam, the simple preparations taste amazing. The key to enhancing flavors is a bonito and konbu dashi used in varying proportions depending on the dish, adding deep yet delicate flavor. Even the rice is lovingly prepared, and a personal favorite of the chef’s. When your meal is over you get one more chance to savor the delicious flavors as you devour a Tokuyama onigiri in the comfort of your own home, reliving the lovely dining experience.

INGREDIENTS
With all the specialist training and years of experience, Chef Ito is a veritable dictionary of all things fugu. The fugu come from the Seto Inland Sea and have full, elegant flavor. The most prized and largest fugu are called torafugu. They come to him live but he rests them for two to three days after breaking them down to ensure the best texture and condensed flavor. He can take a fish in his hands and feel if it’s ready. The smaller fugu varieties are best fresh the day they come from the market. The flesh is still gently pulsing when it is served, plump and delicious.

Ito will not miss a day going to Tsukiji Market. Even if his purchases are all sorted, he goes to greet his suppliers. He feels you get a different level of service and access to the best ingredients only when you nurture relationships in this way. He feeds back customer comments to the fishmongers and even invites them to dine from time to time so they can see customer reactions up close, with their own eyes.