The week of our visit coincided with the third rotation of Hiro Nagoya, a referral-only yakiniku restaurant. Owner Hiroaki Azuma is entirely self-taught, having developed both his grilling technique and his eye for selecting meat through years of practice. His simple philosophy is to choose exceptional cuts and cook them in a way that allows their natural flavor to come through. For Sou Higashikanda, he created a special course that reflects this approach.

The omakase begins with a rare steak tartare, generously topped with Osetra caviar. Presented in a delicate glass bowl, the richness of the caviar contrasts with the sweetness of the marbled beef. Azuma likes to introduce his guests to less familiar cuts, such as umami-packed senbon-suji, or “thousand-fiber cut.” Rich in connective tissue, the cut develops remarkable depth of flavor through slow cooking while retaining a delicate, yielding texture.

Next comes kainomi, a prized section of bara from beside the fillet, followed by pointe, a rare cut found adjacent to the Chateaubriand. Rather than butterflying the pointe, Azuma cooks it whole, retaining its juices and concentrating its flavor.

The course reaches its highlight with Chateaubriand, paired with miso infused with fresh Kyoto sansho and wrapped in crisp nori. The combination of rich beef, fermented miso and the brightness of Japanese pepper lingers long after the final bite.

INGRIDIENTS
For Sou Higashikanda’s guests, Azuma brings top-grade beef from his native Aichi Prefecture, carefully aged to bring out its full character. The same principle extends to every residency, with chefs bringing the ingredients they would use in their own restaurants. To ensure the kitchen can accommodate the needs of various chefs, Sou Higashikanda is equipped with state-of-the-art facilities, including large-capacity refrigeration.